Quantcast
Channel: Art Jewelry Forum
Viewing all 1156 articles
Browse latest View live

The Poetic of the Material

$
0
0

Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail
June 25–October 30, 2022
Museum of Craft and Design, San Francisco, CA, USA

Exhibition view, Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail, Museum of Craft and Design, San Francisco, photo: Henrik Kam

“That we find a crystal or a poppy beautiful means that we are less alone, that we are more deeply inserted into existence than the course of a single life would lead us to believe.” —John Berger

In Iris Eichenberg’s mid-career survey, the selection of works by curator Davira S. Taragin, and the exhibition design by John Randolph make us feel that we are less alone.

This exhibition shows 40 of Eichenberg’s works presented with a logic that is neither chronological nor formal. Objects, jewelry, and installations compose different landscapes as if they made up a person’s geography—the material landscape of the first half of the artist’s life.

Exhibition view, Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail, Museum of Craft and Design, San Francisco, photo: Henrik Kam

With a strong presence throughout the entire exhibition, Taragin’s curatorship shows a clear, well-defined selection of works that build up a narrative. Before we enter the main room, there is a small space, a hall where we are welcomed by a series of pieces made between 2004 and 2008. They are a selection of objects and brooches made of leather, gold, fabric, bone, paper, vintage buttons … family treasures that fit in the palm of your hand. Apprehensible in every sense, they can be read as a system of references to understand the topography we are about to see. This first showcase displays an artist’s material universe. It gives the audience an insight into contemporary jewelry and presents Eichenberg as a key player in the field.

Exhibition view, Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail, Museum of Craft and Design, San Francisco, photo: Henrik Kam

This first showcase is followed by an installation of circular mirrors fit into the wall and etched with portrait sketches. We are reflected on those minimal lines. There, we can become aware of others, like an invitation to view the exhibition while searching for ourselves in every piece we see. Then, before immersing ourselves in the exhibition, we can watch a video—another device Eichenberg uses confidently. In it, a landscape moves slowly without becoming distorted, demanding our close attention so we can understand it and grasp even the slightest movement.

The whole exhibition is summarized in what we find at this first moment. Curatorship, assembly, and lighting are put together in balance. This allows us to comfortably enter the space created by the artist through the clearness of each of her artworks.

A very large bird and an ex-voto in the shape of an arm hang from the wall. Below are hearts knitted from red wool, followed by around 50 medals. Another ex-voto, of a hand, rests against the wall. A showcase preserves, as if a relic, a half-opened travel altar holding golden wedding rings and two slices of some kind of horn. And so the exhibition includes everything from artworks that clearly convey portability and use to pieces that are unconnected with the classical uses of jewelry yet somehow relate to the body and appeal to it.

Exhibition view, Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail, Museum of Craft and Design, San Francisco, photo: Henrik Kam

The pieces are foreign to this space. They are aliens occupying a new habitat with a kind of uneasiness. This status of Eichenberg’s pieces puts the viewer and the artworks on a par. There are no hierarchies of knowledge. The artist does not seek to place herself above her audience. It is as if her art invites us to pay careful attention to what surrounds us so together we can find a new way to understand the world. The exhibition’s diverse materialities imply diverse possibilities, different answers to some question that are connected with the yearning for being certain that we are part of something, that we are less alone.

Exhibition view, Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail, Museum of Craft and Design, San Francisco, photo: Henrik Kam

One of the pieces from the 2017 series Kein Ort Nirgends (No Place Anywhere) is dramatically set in the middle of the room: a small cast iron house lassoed by, and testing the tension of, a rubber band secured to the wall. On the wall we can see a photograph. It is the detail of a rug made by the artist to resemble the air landscapes of the fields in Germany, her home country. On the other side of the band hangs a wooden model of the family farm where she grew up.

In his Poetics of Space, Gaston Bachelard says that our house is our first universe:

“We comfort ourselves by reliving memories of protection. Something closed must retain our memories, while leaving them their original value as images. Memories of the outside world will never have the same tonality as those of home and, by recalling these memories, we add to our store of dreams; we are never real historians, but always near poets, and our emotion is perhaps nothing but an expression of a poetry that was lost. Thus, by approaching the house images with care not to break up the solidarity of memory and imagination, we may hope to make others feel all the psychological elasticity of an image that moves us at an unimaginable depth. Through poems, perhaps more than through recollections, we touch the ultimate poetic depth of the space of the house.”

This series of works collected at the horizon line—the artist’s prime geography—has an identity of its own while permeating the rest of the works regardless of when they were made. The selection of materials is the result of a poetic search rather than a demonstration of virtuosity.

Iris Eichenberg, Unavoidable, from the “Pink Years Later” series, 2009, necklace, nylons, mirror, silver, polymer clay, 100 x 60 x 44 mm, photo: Katie MacDonald

In the middle of the room we find a different landscape: Field (2022), a rug made of steel and brass wire.

Exhibition view, Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail, Museum of Craft and Design, San Francisco, photo: Henrik Kam

“We are torn between nostalgia for the familiar and an urge for the foreign and strange. As often as not, we are homesick most for the places we have never known.” —Carson McCullers

Because this is a mid-career retrospective, this piece gives us clues to the new conversations Eichenberg might propose to us through her next works. The new sceneries may still be unknown to her but they will undoubtedly cast the same energy as her existing pieces.

 

Iris Eichenberg, Two of the Same Kind Keeping Each Other Warm, 1998, object, felted wool, 19.5 x 29.5 x 1.5 cm, Galerie Rob Koudijs, collection Koudijs/Schrijver photo: Eddo Hartmann

It is not possible to speak about Eichenberg’s work, and especially about the oeuvre in this exhibition, without referring once and again to materiality. But it is important to relate the term with the religious realm, particularly with ex-votos, a typology used by the artist. Ex-votos are material testimonies of faith, proofs of the efficacy of a devotional act. When words fail, Eichenberg resorts to materials. By knitting, embroidering, repeating an obsessive gesture upon a surface, she creates her own devotional act.

Devotion to her work and her creative process redeem her. These pieces are a testimony to the fact that art is a way of saving ourselves.

Note: Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail was made possible, in part, by the Susan Beech Mid-Career Artist Grant, which Eichenberg won in 2021.

 

LA POÉTICA DE LA MATERIA
EL PAISAJE MATERIAL DE IRIS EICHENBERG

 Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail
Junho 25–Outubro 30, 2022
Museum of Craft and Design, San Francisco, USA

“That we find a crystal or a poppy beautiful means that we are less alone, that we are more deeply inserted into existence than the course of a single life would lead us to believe.” —John Berger

En esta exposición de mitad de carrera de Iris Eichenberg, tanto la selección de obras, hecha por la curadora Davira  S.Taragin, como el diseño de montaje de John Randolph, y la obra de la artista hacen que al entrar en la sala del Museo de Craft and Design de San Francisco nos sintamos menos solos.

Iris Eichenberg, Brooch, ca. 1997, silver, foam, wood, 120 x 80 x 65 mm, Galerie Rob Koudijs, collection Koudijs/Schrijver, photo: Eddo Hartmann

La exposición reúne alrededor de cuarenta obras agrupadas con una lógica que no es cronológica ni formal: objetos, joyas, instalaciones conforman diferentes paisajes como si de la geografía de una persona se tratara; el paisaje material de la primera mitad de la vida de una artista.

La curaduría tiene fuerte presencia a lo largo de todo el recorrido de la exposición;  es notable el trabajo de selección para la construcción de un relato. Hay un pequeño espacio antes de entrar de lleno en la sala principal, un hall donde nos reciben una serie de piezas hechas entre 2004 y 2008, una selección de objetos y broches de cuero, oro, textiles, hueso, papel, botones antiguos, tesoros familiares que caben en la palma de la mano, son abarcables en todo sentido y pueden leerse como sistema de referencias para entender la topografía que veremos a continuación.

Iris Eichenberg, Girlfriends, from the “Blossom” series, 1998, object, wood, wool, found objects, hair, dental material, (left to right) a. 16.5 x 6.4 x 19.4 cm, b. 25.4 x 8.9 x 17.8 cm, c. 34.3 x 10.2 x 19.7 cm, photo: Tim Thayer

Esta primera vitrina presenta el universo material de una artista y también opera para entender de qué se trata la joyería contemporánea y porqué Iris Eichenberg es un referente en este campo.

A esta primera vitrina le sigue una instalación hecha de espejos circulares encajados en la pared y  grabados con bocetos de retratos, nos vemos reflejados en esas mínimas líneas en las que podemos descubrir a otros, como una primera invitación a mirar la exposición buscándonos en lo que vamos a ver. Y antes de estar de lleno en la muestra tenemos un video, recurso que tampoco le es ajeno a Eichenberg, una pantalla muestra un paisaje que se va moviendo lentamente sin llegar a distorsionarse y que nos incluye pidiéndonos mucha atención para poder entenderlo y percibir el mínimo movimiento.

Toda la exposición está resumida en lo que encontramos en este primer momento. Curaduría, montaje e iluminación trabajan armónicamente para que podamos entrar cómodamente en el espacio que, con la claridad de cada una de sus piezas, genera la artista.

Exhibition view, Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail, Museum of Craft and Design, San Francisco, photo: Henrik Kam

Un pájaro muy grande y un exvoto con forma de brazo cuelgan de la pared; debajo, corazones rojos tejidos en lana seguidos por unas cincuenta medallas. Otro exvoto de una mano se apoya en la pared, una vitrina preserva, como si de una reliquia se tratara, un altar de viaje a medio abrir donde se ven alianzas de casamiento doradas, y dos rodajas de algún tipo de cuerno… La exposición continúa así entre obras en las que claramente se pueden entender la portabilidad y el uso, hasta piezas que no responden a usos clásicos de la joyería pero que de alguna manera se relacionan con el cuerpo y lo interpelan.

Las obras son claramente ajenas a ese espacio, son extranjeras ocupando un nuevo hábitat con cierta incomodidad. Esta manera de estar de las piezas de Eichenberg hacen que el espectador y la obra se encuentren en la misma posición; no hay jerarquía de conocimientos ni un deseo de la autora por ponerse por encima de su público; es como si la obra nos invitara a prestar mucha atención a lo que nos rodea para encontrar juntos una nueva manera de entender el mundo. Las diferentes materialidades de las obras son diferentes posibilidades, diferentes respuestas a alguna pregunta que diría, aunque no pueda estar segura, tiene que ver con la necesidad de pertenencia, con el anhelo de certeza de saber que somos parte de algo.

Iris Eichenberg, Kein Ort Nirgends (No Place Anywhere), 2017, installation,
wood, 115.6 x 167.6 x 27.9 cm, photo: Tim Thayer

Una de las piezas de la serie Kein Ort Nirgends (Ningun lugar en ningún lado) de 2017 irrumpe en medio de la sala: una pequeña casa de hierro fundido que sostiene en tensión una banda elástica amurada a la pared donde vemos la foto de un detalle de una alfombra hecha por la artista dibujando el paisaje aéreo de los campos de Alemania, su lugar de origen y del otro lado una maqueta de madera de la granja familiar donde creció. Dice Gaston Bachelard en “La poética del espacio” que la casa es nuestro primer universo

 Nos reconfortamos reviviendo recuerdos de protección. Algo cerrado debe guardar  los recuerdos dejándoles sus valores de imágenes. Los recuerdos del mundo exterior no tendrán nunca la misma tonalidad que los recuerdos de la casa. Evocando los recuerdos de la casa, sumamos valores de sueño; no somos nunca verdaderos historiadores, somos siempre un poco poetas y nuestra emoción tal vez sólo traduzca la poesía perdida. Así, abordando las imágenes de la casa con la preocupación de no quebrar la solidaridad de la memoria y de la imaginación, podemos esperar hacer sentir toda la elasticidad psicológica de una imagen que nos conmueve con una profundidad insospechada. En los poemas, tal vez más que en los recuerdos, llegamos al fondo poético del espacio de la casa.

 Este grupo de obras reunidas en la línea de horizonte, la geografía primaria de la artista, tiene una identidad en sí mismo pero impregna el resto de las obras independientemente de cuando hayan sido hechas porque señala cómo la selección de las materialidades responde a una búsqueda poética y no a una muestra de virtuosismo.

Iris Eichenberg, Field, 2022, steel, copper, brass, nickel, 54.3 x 126.4 x 91.4 cm, photo: Tim Thayer

En medio de la sala nos encontramos con una paisaje diferente, Field, una alfombra de acero y alambre de bronce, obra de 2022.

“We are torn between nostalgia for the familiar and an urge for the foreign and strange. As often as not, we are homesick most for the places we have never known.” —Carson McCullers

Por ser una retrospectiva de mitad de carrera, esta pieza y lo que dice Carson McCullers nos dan pistas de lo que vendrá, de las nuevas conversaciones que Eichenberg puede proponernos con sus próximos trabajos, los nuevos escenarios quizás desconocidos para ella pero que vislumbran la misma energía de sus trabajos de siempre.

Es imposible hablar del trabajo de Iris Eichenberg, y en particular del cuerpo de obra de esta exposición, sin hacer referencia una y otra vez a la materialidad, pero sería importante relacionar este término con lo religioso en particular con los exvotos, tipología usada por la artista. Los exvotos son testimonios materiales de fe, son pruebas de la eficacia de un acto devocional. En la muestra “Cuando las palabras fallan” (When words fail) Iris Eichenberg recurre al material y  tejiendo, bordando, repitiendo un gesto obsesivo sobre una superficie, crea su propio acto de fe.

La devoción por su trabajo y su proceso creativo la redimen. Estas piezas son un testimonio de que el arte es una manera de salvarnos.

Nota: Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail fue posible, en parte, gracias a Susan Beech Mid-Career Artist Grant, que Eichenberg ganó en 2021.

The post The Poetic of the Material appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.


OMG, Have You Heard

$
0
0

August 2022, Part 2

 Art Jewelry Forum is pleased to share the news that members of our community find noteworthy. Is something missing? The success of this compilation of compelling events, news, and items of interest to the jewelry community depends on YOUR participation. If you’re a member of AJF at the Silver level or above, you can add news and ideas to this bi-monthly report by going here. If you aren’t a member, but would like to become one, join AJF here.
Listings gathered with assistance from Carrie Yodanis.

FEEL LIKE SEEING A JEWELRY SHOW?

Find these listings and many, many more on our dedicated exhibition page:

  • Fulfillment, by Andy Lowrie, at Baltimore Jewelry Center through August 26, 2022
  • Earrings Galore, at Ombré Gallery through August 27, 2022
  • 20 Years Ornamentum, at Ornamentum through August 28, 2022
  • Stefano Marchetti, Carla Nuis, Sondra Sherman, Luisa Kuschel and Peleg Mercedes Matityahu, at Galerie Marzee through August 28, 2022
  • Lobe: An Exploration of the Earring, at Fingers
  • Cartier and Islamic Art: In Search of Modernity, at Dallas Museum of Art through September 18, 2022
  • Three Worlds:Through the Lens, Jewelry and Object Arts by Jiro Kamata and Photography by Chalat Kanjanaratanakorn, at ATTA Gallery, through September 18, 2022
  • Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail, at Museum of Craft and Design through October 30, 2022

 

NEW ADDITIONS TO AJF’S DIGITAL LIBRARY

 

 

 

 

FROM OUR MEMBERS

ART GALLERY OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA PURCHASES WORK BY JESS DARE

AJF member gallery Zu design featured Frangipani Lei, by Jess Dare, in December last year as a notable piece. The gallery is excited to announce that it has been acquired by the Art Gallery of South Australia for the Gallery’s decorative arts collection. Frangipani Lei is a heartfelt response to Beresford White Inspired, an exhibition at Zu design that celebrated the work and life of an inspiring maker, Beresford White. “When I invited Jess to make a piece for this show she was hesitant,” says Zu design’s Jane Bowden. “Her work is very different [from] Beresford’s. I explained that I had asked her because I knew that her partner had proposed with one of his rings. The neckpiece she produced sits perfectly within the show, and the story behind it has moved many visitors.”

 


BALTIMORE JEWELRY CENTER IS HIRING

BJC seeks a part-time studio assistant who is knowledgeable about metalsmithing and jewelry, as well as facilities management. The ideal candidate is an excellent communicator who enjoys supporting users of BJC’s space with the ultimate goal of leading everyone toward an independent studio practice. This position is focused on supporting the programming and daily management of the BJC, its Studio and Program Managers, and its students and renters. Info.

 

 

 


SUSAN CUMMINS RECOMMENDS DIE KLEIDER DER MARIA (DRESSING MARIA), BY BETTINA DITTLMANN

“I got this book in Munich at the Schmuck stand of Bettina Dittlmann,” explains Cummins, who sent in the photo of the book cover shown at left. ”She worked with a museum attached to a church to dress and adorn a Black Madonna. The book documents her process of making the gown and crown of both the Madonna and the child. It is fascinating when contemporary jewelers approach Christian or other religious communities and work together to make something. The materials of metalsmithing have been related to the sacred world for centuries, but contemporary artists seem a bit afraid to go there so it is wonderful to see what happens when one does.” More.

 

 


ARIEL LAVIAN RECOMMENDS NORTHERN EXPOSURE—TEL HAI CONTEMPORARY JEWELERS IN TEL AVIV

Curated by Merav Rahat, the exhibition offers a fascinating look at the work of the metalsmithing department at the Tel-Hai Arts Institute. About 30 former and current students present a wide variety of work ranging from objects of worship to tools for personal use; from jewelry intended for adornment to items examining relationships and boundaries between body and object. At B.Y5 Gallery, in Tel Aviv, through August 27, 2022.

 

 


 

ANNETTE DAM GUEST STARS ON THE JEWELRY JOURNEY PODCAST

Dam is in the process of creating an art jewelry gallery in Copenhagen. She explains why people often don’t understand art jewelry, even in cultures with a tradition of goldsmithing, art, and design, and why Americans are more willing to wear large statement pieces. Listen.

 

 

 

 


FELICIA MÜLBAIER WON A BAVARIAN STATE PRIZE

Congratulations! The Bavarian State Prize is awarded for special design and technical achievements in crafts. Mulbaier won for her brooches Physis and Faltenwurf.

 

 

 

 


MÄRTA MATTSON FEATURED IN SWEDEN’S BARNEBY MAGAZINE

Galleri Sebastian Schildt shows the first joint exhibition by Mattson and the photographer and makeup designer Eva von Bahr, who worked on the movie Dune. In Down the Rabbit Hole, photo art, sculpture, and jewelry “meet in a cabaret-like cavalcade.” Read more.

 

 

 


ROBERT LEE MORRIS FEATURED IN VANITY FAIR ON JEWELLERY

The article on the jewelry artist appears in the July/August issue of the magazine. Go here, then flip to page 60.

 

 


CHECK OUT GUO PEI: COUTURE FANTASY

“This was the most imaginative [fashion exhibition] I think I might have ever seen,” says Susan Cummins. “The structure of the clothes and the flawless embroidery technique is breathtaking. The jewelry and shoes and everything were designed to work together. Each collection had a theme that was well represented by the clothes and continued the idea of clothing’s ability to speak. Not to be missed!” At the Legion of Honor, in San Francisco.

 

 

 

 

PAGES

EXHIBITION CATALOG—IRIS EICHENBERG: WHERE WORDS FAIL

Iris Eichenberg: Where Words Fail, at the Museum of Craft and Design, is a comprehensive mid-career survey of Eichenberg’s work. It encompasses works from across her career, and highlights the scope of her thought-provoking jewelry, objects, and powerful installations. With today’s outcry for social justice, Eichenberg’s work merits particular attention. Eichenberg won the Susan Beech Mid-Career Artist Grant in 2021. Order the book.

 

 

 


BOOK—THE ART & TIMES OF DANIEL JOCZ

This book presents the entrancing, challenging, sometimes beautiful, and always clever work of the American jewelry artist and sculptor. Jeannine Falino takes an in-depth look at the twists and turns of his long career, from his early geometric sculptures to the fashion-forward flocked Candy Wear collection, and from his ruminations on Marlene Dietrich in the form of necklaces featuring enamel smoked cigarettes to the wall reliefs he explores today. Wendy Steiner considers Jocz’s place in the avant-garde through the lens of fashion and culture, while Patricia Harris and David Lyon explore his involvement in the rollicking Boston jewelry scene of the late twentieth century.

 

 

 

OPPORTUNITIES

ANDY LOWRIE TO TEACH CHAIN MAKING AT BJC

Students will explore the simplest of necklace structures through a variety of techniques and materials. The class will cover practical issues such as solder setup and polishing as well as different design and fabrication approaches. Students will make chain links out of wire and sheet metal and be tasked with making a classically designed chain and inventing their own. At Baltimore Jewelry Center, Thursday evenings from September 15–­December 8, 2022.

 

 

 


RESIDENCY AT FRANÇOISE VAN DEN BOSCH FOUNDATION

For May–June 2023. Non-Dutch artists only. Studio and apartment provided, plus an amount toward expenses. Offered by Rian de Jong and her partner Herman Marres. Deadline: September 15, 2022. Info.

 

 

 


 

CALL FOR EXHIBITION: PRECIOUS COLLECTIVE

“Battle of the Pins” is a celebratory show in honor of the five years that Precious Collective has existed. It also celebrates the fact that a pin or brooch has its own agency. It’s an object that can reflect personality, politics, thoughts, feelings, messages … or anything the maker or wearer wants it to be! Application deadline: September 11, 2022. Info.

 

 

 


JOB OPENING: JEWELRY/METAL ARTS COORDINATOR

The Mendocino Arts Center is hiring.

 

 

 

 

 


OPEN CALL: OBSESSED! 2023

Proposals may include exhibitions, presentations, book launches, performances, screenings, panel discussions, etc. The event will take place November 1–30, 2023. Application deadline: September 15, 2022. Info.

 

 

 


 

CALL FOR ENTRY: ADORN AXIS

AdornAxis will once again be showcasing jewelry design from around the globe by artists who masterfully use uncommon materials or common materials in uncommon ways. The theme is Here & Now/signs of the time. Application deadline: September 18, 2022. Info.

 

 

 


 

OPEN CALL: BRAZIL JEWELLERY WEEK

Every year, Brazil Jewelry Week gathers and exhibits Brazilian jewelry artists and other artists from Latin America. This year’s theme: The story that inhabits me. The body as a book. The body in freedom. Application deadline: August 31, 2022. Info.

 

 

 


 

OPEN CALL: DREAM MACHINE EXHIBITION, AT NYCJW

DM2022 seeks work that explores themes of identity and politics; intimacy and isolation; body and autonomy. Through jewelry, tableware, and objects, artists manifest the intangible—giving voice and form to the liminal spaces of dreams, feelings, and atmosphere. No deadline given, but prior to the notification date of October 3, 2022. Info.

 

 


 

OPEN CALL: WE ARE HERE, AT METAL MUSEUM
This 2023 juried exhibition celebrates LGBTQIA+ voices in the contemporary metals community. It seeks to include a variety of metals, techniques, and forms (jewelry, hollowware, sculpture, installations, furniture, tools, hardware, ornamental architecture, etc.). Application deadline: October 16, 2022. Info.

 

 

 

 


OPEN CALL: VERDANT BODIES, AT ARMORY ART CENTER

Open to any artist working in art jewelry, adornment, and functional metalsmithing formats, this exhibition will offer insight as to how makers of the art jewelry and metalsmithing field interpret their environments. The intent is to raise topics such as ecology, evolution, species relationships, botanical, and cultural implications. Application deadline: September 16, 2022. Info.

 

INTERESTING LINKS

 

LISA M. BERMAN ORGANIZED A PANEL DISCUSSION

The owner of Sculpture To Wear brought together artists for a panel discussion and pop-up sale at the Muckenthaler Cultural Center. Panelists included 2Roses, the team of Corliss and John Lemieux Rose. John serves as a board member for AJF. Read about it.

 

 


TEA WITH ABBAS: TIBETAN JEWELLERY IN NEPAL

In this story from Garland, Gary Wornell visits the workshop of Abbas Karim Bhatt, who brings resplendent Tibetan jewelry to the bustle of Kathmandu.

 

 

 

 


THE SMCK ON REEL VIDEOS ARE ONLINE

You can watch them here.

 

 

 

 

 


WATCH A VIDEO OF THE JUST IN MY HEAD EXHIBITION

This show started yesterday, at Platform Schmuckkunst, in Graz, Austria. See a guided presentation here.

 

 

 

 

 


SAVE THE DATE

The 12th Annual East Carolina University Material Topics Symposium will take place January 13–15, 2023, with the theme Forging Ahead.

 

 

 

 


THIS DEBUT JEWELRY COLLECTION IS WHACK!

Jewelry designer Malyia McNaughton, of Made by Malyia, collaborated with rapper and songwriter Tierra Whack on a 16-piece capsule collection. The jewelry sells at the Piercing Pagoda chain of stores, for which Whack serves as creative director. McNaughton is also a member of the Black in Jewelry Coalition Board. Learn more at National Jeweler and in Forbes.

 

 


THE WORLD JEWELLERY MUSEUM INTRODUCED AN INSTAGRAM FILTER

Play dress-up with a pair of centuries-old earrings from the institution’s collection. Go here.

 

 

 

 

 


2022 VONMO 3RD “PURIFYING THE SOUL” CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY EXHIBITION

VONMO Creative studio, Qinghai. For the 3rd Contemporary Jewelry Exhibition 2022 launched by Vonmo Studio, artists were invited to create art works with “your own soul.”

 

 

 

 


AI GIVES AN ENGAGED COUPLE IDEAS FOR WEDDING BANDS

DALL-E is one of the world’s most advanced artificial intelligence systems for creating images. Type in a description, and it instantly produces professional-looking art or hyperrealistic photographs. For now, we don’t have to worry that it will out-imagine us humans … More.

 

 

 


LISA WALKER AND KARL FRITSCH FEATURED IN APARTAMENTO MAGAZINE

See issue #28.

 

 

 

 

 


TAKING CARE OF BUSINESS

From the Dearest substack: On August 27, 2022, The Lost Jewelry Collection of Elvis Presley and Colonel Tom Parker will auction jewelry and memorabilia that belonged to the king. This ring, in the “nugget” style, is the first Presley designed using his logo and catchphrase, TCB. “It’s completely hideous, but that’s the 1970s for ya,” writes Monica McLaughlin. Minimum bid: $500,000. (CNN also reported.)

 

 

 


THE ANCIENT MAYA’S ADVANTAGEOUS DENTAL BEAUTIFICATION

The sealant used for gem-crusted ancient Maya teeth had medicinal properties that prevent tooth infections and decay, according to a new study. Learn more in Hyperallergic. Question is … do today’s trendy tooth gems have the same bennies?

 

 

 

 


AN ANCIENT TREASURE REWRITES DANISH HISTORY

More than 20 gold artefacts were found buried near the village of Vindelev. Hidden for almost 1,500 years, the treasure includes Roman medallions and ornate pendants called bracteates—some large as a saucer—with mysterious inscriptions and never-seen-before runes. Could Vindelev have been the seat of power for a previously unknown Iron Age king or chieftain? Watch the BBC video.

 

 

 

 


MEN’S ENGAGEMENT RINGS
Another article about engagement rings for men. Is the trend finally taking off?

 

 

 

 

 


BIG RING WINS GUINNESS RECORD FOR MOST DIAMONDS

It has 24,000 diamonds set in it— almost twice as many as the previous record-holder. It weighs 340 grams (3/4 pound) … how pleasant it must be to wear as you wave your hand around epressively!

 

 

 

 


NOSE RINGS NOT ALLOWED—BOOOOOOOOOO! 

Read about Lewis Hamilton, a Formula One car racer who was almost banned from the sport for not removing his nose stud while racing. The seven-time world champion said he could not easily remove his nose stud as it was welded in—whaaaaa? No word on the penalty for wearing hoops—maybe he takes them out, or maybe the governing body doesn’t care about earrings—but an informative discussion of jewelry in men’s sports is discussed further here.

 

 

The post OMG, Have You Heard appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

On Offer

$
0
0

August 2022, Part 2

There are so many reasons to purchase art jewelry…

  • You got that hard-earned promotion—celebrate!
  • You’re experiencing a once-in-a-lifetime occasion—honor it.
  • You wrapped up that major accomplishment—pay it tribute.
  • You want to mark the beginning of a new relationship or the end of one—commemorate it.
  • Perhaps it’s an investment—do it!
  • It’s the perfect piece to round out an aspect of your collection—pounce!
  • Or maybe it’s as a treat for yourself—just because.

Art Jewelry Forum’s international gallery supporters celebrate and exhibit art jewelry. Our monthly On Offer series allows this extensive network of international galleries to showcase extraordinary pieces personally selected to tempt and inspire you. Take a look. You’re bound to find a fantastic piece you simply have to add to your collection! (Please contact the gallery directly for inquiries.)

Mio Kuhnen, Butterfly Collection, 2022, champlevé enamel, cloisonné, sterling silver, (top) Bulloak Jewel Butterfly (Hypochrysops piceatus), pendant, 55 x 41 x 9 mm; (left) Laced Fritillary Butterfly (Argynnis hyperbius inconstans), brooch, 51 x 53 x 10 mm; (right) Pale Imperial Hairstreak Butterfly (Jalmenus eubulus), brooch, 69 x 54 x 10 mm, photo: artist

Gallery: Zu design
Contact: Jane
Artist: Mio Kuhnen
Retail price: Pendant AUS$2,400; small brooch AUS$2,400; large brooch AUS$2,800

Mio Kuhnen’s intricately enameled collection is based on electron microscope images of the “scales” that make up butterfly wings. “This series is based on a recent scientific publication which highlights that few butterfly taxa are explicitly listed for protection by Australian legislation (Geyle et al., 2021). When I am not practicing as an artist, I am a scientist assessing major developments in relation to the federal environment legislation. As these butterflies are not listed under legislation, they aren’t ‘protected’ and, devastatingly, are not considered during the assessments even though they are critical in many ecological processes.” From the current exhibition at Zu design, Entwined – Mio Kuhnen and Helen Aitken-Kuhnen.

Ruudt Peters, BARA-buco, 2020, brooch, oxidized silver, graphite, gold, 450 x 450 x 340 mm, photo: Jürgen Eickhoff

Gallery: Galerie Spektrum
Contact: Jürgen Eickhoff
Artist: Ruudt Peters
Retail price: €2,900

“I just presented the BARA-serie, by Ruudt Peters, on the art-Karlsruhe with great success,” says Jürgen Eickhff. “I can offer you this brooch from the BARA series, with its deep and intense aura, which it has for everyone.”

Yojae Lee, Long-Horned Beetle, 2016, brooch, frog skin, leather, oxidized/gold-plated sterling silver, polymer clay, 130 x 245 x 62 mm, photo: artist

Gallery: Four Gallery
Contact: Karin Roy Andersson
Artist: Yojae Lee
Retail price: €2,800

Insects are a classic motif throughout the history of jewelry. Scarabs, butterflies, and dragonflies swarm all over. The insects made by South Korean artist Yojae Lee have a size that changes the relationship to the wearer. The robotic creatures are both captivating and terrifying. By mixing different types of metals and leather, Lee creates artwork that captures you both figuratively and literally.

Margo Csipo, Hand Hold Reversible Dangles, 2021, earrings, sterling silver, mother-of-pearl, pigmented ink, lacquer, 25 x 52 x 13 mm, photo: Elliot Keeley

Gallery: Baltimore Jewelry Center
Contact: Shane Prada
Artist: Margo Csipo
Retail price: US$285

Margo Cispo is a current emerging artist resident and community member of the Baltimore Jewelry Center. She has a BFA in industrial design from the Massachusetts College of Art and is heavily influenced by narrative-based art forms like film, animation, and graphic novels. Tapping into her lived experience as a queer artist and first-generation Hungarian immigrant, Csipo creates layered compositions with discerning material combinations.

Joana Albuquerque e Sousa, Unstable Object VII, 2021, necklace, aluminum, fishing line, 215 mm in diameter, photo: @Pedro Sequeira

Gallery: Galeria Tereza Seabra
Contact: Tereza Seabra
Artist: Joana Albuquerque e Sousa
Retail price: €200, plus shipping

Joana Albuquerque e Sousa, a young artist who recently graduated from Ar.Co, in Lisbon, is currently in Munich pursuing her studies at the Akademie der Bildenden Künste München. In this work she transforms the traditional torque into a very refined work reusing plastics and aluminum from our everyday lives.

Teri Brudnak, Mosaic in Motion, 2022, bangle and earrings, resin, acrylic, bangle exterior 89 mm, photo: artist

Gallery: Sculpture To Wear
Contact: Lisa M. Berman
Artist: Teri Brudnak
Retail price: Bangle, US$495; earrings, US$160

Created by one of the premier makers of plastics technology (Star Trek: The Next Generation/TDM STUDIOS). A true melding of 1980s acrylic into the contemporary mold-making of today. The festive palette calls out for a party.

Namkyung Lee, Image Archive, 2020, necklace, sterling silver, photograph printed on acrylic, photo courtesy of Galeria Alice Floriano

Gallery: Galeria Alice Floriano
Contact: Alice Floriano | Mariana Tostes
Artist: Namkyung Lee
Retail price: €300

Namkyung Lee has received a lot of awards in the last few years. She has developed a unique work style, mixing different techniques to create a very interesting final result. Her approach gives a sense of transparency to the photographic images in the pieces. Her pieces explore dimensions and shapes, but they are also very light, so the jewels are not heavy at all. Her work intends to talk about different points of view through pictures taken from windows. 

Ruudt Peters, Azoth Ring
Ruudt Peters, Azoth Ring, 2004, silver, polyester, 35 x 40 x 40 mm, photo courtesy of Ornamentum

Gallery: Ornamentum
Contact: Stefan Friedemann
Artist: Ruudt Peters
Retail price: US$1,200

Ornamentum celebrates its 20-year anniversary with an overview exhibition, with several works from the Azoth series, by Ruudt Peters, in the show. This body of work, an exploration of the alchemistic transformation from crystalline solid to amorphous liquid, marks a milestone for the gallery. In reflection, Ornamentum co-founder Stefan Friedemann notes, “It had been in our minds that we would probably enter the art fair world at some point down the road, but with Ruudt Peters on board we decided that we should step up that year, and we presented Azoth at the 2005 SOFA fair, in Chicago, with each piece presented in a bowl of water upon an iron stand.” This step jump-started the gallery in its trajectory of exhibiting at international fairs soon after, leading to the co-founders’ acclaim as pioneers in the field, as well as a reputation for presenting the more challenging works and installation-based presentations.

Heejoo Kim, Treasures, 2015, ring, silver, electroformed, hand-dyed leather, 40 x 50 x 15 mm, photo courtesy of Galeria Reverso

Gallery: Galeria Reverso
Contact: Paula Crespo
Artist: Heejoo Kim
Retail price: €492

“The abstractions present in my projects are my homage to nature, on which we depend,” says Heejoo Kim. “We humans are the symbol of the current of past, present, and future, and the consequence of life’s long journey. We keep moving forward and that energy is beyond the flow of time. I believe that there is a kind of collective unconscious that is part of our subconscious and, from time immemorial, of the forgotten memories of ourselves. Interest in topics as intense as life and death flourishes through encounters with microscopic and eccentric realities that are hidden by the familiarity around us.”

Felicia Mülbaier, Fenster, 2021, pins, lapis lazuli, silver, approximately 35 x 40 x 15 mm–20 x 30 x 15 mm, photo courtesy of the artist and Galerie Door

Gallery: Galerie Door
Contact: Doreen Timmers
Artist: Felicia Mülbaier
Retail price: Each €175

Felicia Mülbaier’s art jewelry—or wearable sculptures—originate from lapis lazuli, a gemstone in royal blue. With endless grinding and filing, she transforms the hard, cold stone into a window: fragile, open, and narrative. This series of small brooches is named Fenster, which means “windows.” Mülbaier won the Bayerischen Staatspreis 2022.

Kvetoslava Flora Sekanova, Good Luck, 2021, necklace, oxidized sterling silver, freshwater white pearls, thread, 650 mm long, pendant 40 x 20 mm, photo: Michael Couper

Gallery: Fingers Gallery
Contact: Lisa Higgins
Artist: Kvetoslava Flora Sekanova
Retail price: NZ$725

Because we could all do with a little more of this … “Good Luck was inspired by the symbolism of today’s iconic signs,” says Kvetoslava Flora Sekanova. Originally from Slovakia, the artist studied jewelry both in New Zealand and at the Akademie der Bildenden Künste, in Munich, Germany. She has worked in a wide array of materials over the years and been selected for a number of prestigious awards, including Talente in 2011 and Schmuck in 2016. “I am a maker of jewelry and objects. I make to raise awareness about the miracle of our existence … and because I just love it.”

Annamaria Zannella, Blue Windows, 2016, earrings, silver, gold, rhodium, Plexiglas, photo courtesy of Gallery Loupe

Gallery: Gallery Loupe
Contact: Patti Bleicher
Artist: Annamaria Zanella
Retail price: US$3,000

Italian jeweler Annamaria Zanella’s focus is research into materials, the inherent poetry of the design process, and the subversion of commonly held assumptions about beauty and value. Some writers have indeed referred to her jewelry as povera (poor), to Zanella a welcome contradiction in terms, since her “microsculptures” are often crafted from distressed metal and banal substances. Nonetheless, Zanella also excels at working with the traditional mediums of silver and gold, and techniques like enameling and niello. Zanella is represented in numerous museums, including Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris; Kunstgewerbemuseum Berlin; Die Neue Sammlung – The Design Museum, Munich; Museum of Arts and Design, New York; Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim; Museo degli Argenti, Florence; Victoria and Albert Museum, London; Palazzo Fortuny, Venice; Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York; and Swiss National Museum, Zurich.

The post On Offer appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

Cartier and Islamic Art

$
0
0

Cartier and Islamic Art: In Search of Modernity
May 14–September 18, 2022
Dallas Museum of Art, Dallas, TX, US

At the dawn of the 20th century, the introduction of the aesthetic elements of Islamic art through exhibitions, publications, travels, and personal collections fueled new ideas and possibilities at Cartier. The Maison began to conceptualize and execute a multiplicity of designs filtered through colors, materials, shapes, and techniques. They mined artistic elements from the past, both from their own archives and from original source materials, in pursuit of modern innovation and contemporary trends. The exhibition Cartier and Islamic Art: In Search of Modernity explores how diverse sources spark creativity and generate new forms of visual expression that span centuries and continents, crossing time, geography, and media. The Dallas Museum of Art (DMA) is the sole North American venue for Cartier and Islamic Art, and its co-organizer. The show features over 400 objects including pieces from Louis Cartier’s exquisite collection of Persian and Indian art and the work of the designers of the Maison Cartier from the early 20th century to the present day.

Bracelet, Cartier Paris, 1923. Platinum, diamonds. Cartier Collection. Vincent Wulveryck, Collection Cartier copyright Cartier

The formative influences of Islamic art on Louis Cartier as a collector and, more significantly, on Maison Cartier’s production of jewelry and precious objects from the early 20th century until today is divided into four sections. Co-organized by the DMA and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, in collaboration with the Musée du Louvre and with the support of Cartier, it offers several groupings of jewelry, objects, and archival materials alongside works of Islamic art drawn from international collections, including the Keir Collection of Islamic Art, on loan to the Dallas Museum of Art.

Bib necklace, Cartier Paris, special order, 1947. Twisted 18-karat and 20-kar- at gold, platinum, brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, one heart-shaped faceted amethyst, twenty-seven emerald-cut amethysts, one oval faceted amethyst, turquoise cabochons. Cartier Collection. Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection copyright Cartier

The exhibition starts with Paris at the dawn of the 20th century. The city was a catalyst for creativity. As European powers expanded into the Middle East, India, and North Africa, Paris became the center of trade in Islamic art and architectural elements. At the same time, the study of Islamic art was emerging as an academic discipline, with major exhibitions presenting these visual works in a more scientific, formalized manner. The origins of Islamic influence on Cartier through the cultural context of Paris in this moment is most informed by the figure of Louis J. Cartier (1875–1942), a partner and eventual director of Cartier’s Paris branch, and a collector of Islamic art. Louis encountered Islamic arts through various sources, including the major exhibitions of Islamic art in Paris in 1903 and 1912 at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, which were held to inspire new forms of modern design, and a pivotal exhibition of masterpieces of Islamic art in Munich in 1910. Fascinated, he acquired many works, photographing them to share with his designers, and lent them to many exhibitions. The importance of these exhibitions, and those that followed, is two-fold. They sparked curiosity and admiration for the masterful execution of Islamic art, and they created a generation of collectors like Louis himself, who valued the importance of sharing his personal holdings with the public and his own designers.

“Decoration arabe,” studies of Arab art and Arab-style patterns, after Jones, The Grammar of Ornament, Cartier Paris, c. 1910, graphite and India ink on tracing paper. Archives Cartier Paris copyright Cartier. Photo: Image provided courtesy of Cartier Archives

The second section of the exhibition pivots to the accumulation of sources from artworks to pattern books and how the Maison’s designs were informed by drawings from the archives of Charles Jacqueau, one of the Maison’s principal designers. The selected materials allow us to better understand the creative process, from the original idea and first studies to the final production drawing. Intense research and visual analysis revealed the potential Islamic sources for selected designs.

Bazuband upper arm bracelet, Cartier Paris for Cartier London, special order, 1922. Platinum, old-cut diamonds. Cartier Collection. Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection copyright Cartier

Originally assembled by Louis Cartier’s grandfather and later enriched by Louis, the study library contains anthologies of decorative ornaments, along with art history books, exhibition catalogs, and numerous publications about Islamic art and architecture. These included Owen Jones’s The Grammar of Ornament, as well as the works of well-known French historians of design, including Adalbert de Beaumont, Eugène Collinot, and Albert Racinet.

Arabian no. 2, Owen Jones, The Grammar of Ornament, pl. 32, Day and Son, Ltd., London, 1865. Archives Cartier Paris copyright Cartier. Photo: Image provided courtesy of Cartier Archives

The Islamic artwork in this section comes from Louis’s personal collection. It is difficult to date the start of Louis Cartier’s personal collection of Islamic art because he regularly purchased works on behalf of the Maison and never published his collection, which was dispersed after his death. Portions of his collection have been reunited in this exhibition, thanks to the Maison Cartier’s archives (stock books, invoices, glass plate negatives) and to the records of exhibitions to which he was a lender. He tended to favor 16th- to 17th-century manuscripts, paintings, and inlaid objects from Iran and India.

Tiara, Cartier Paris, special order, 1912. Platinum, round old- and rose-cut diamonds, pear-shaped diamonds, carved rock crystal, millegrain setting. Cartier Collection. Marian Gérard, Cartier Collection copyright Cartier

This section also explores the growing popularity of Indian jewelry in Europe in the 19th century, concurrent with British colonial rule in India. Jacques Cartier, who headed the London branch, traveled to India and Bahrain in October 1911 to meet with maharajahs, who were potential clients, and also with gemstone and pearl merchants. Upon returning from his travels, Jacques invited guests to an exhibition of “Oriental Jewels and Objets d’Art Recently Collected in India” at the Cartier boutique in London. This May 1912 event inaugurated a series of exhibitions organized by Cartier in 1912 and 1913. The London and Paris exhibition likely contained primarily Indian jewelry, but the US shows seem to have focused on modern jewelry inspired by these traditions. In so doing, the creations forecast trends that would emerge in the Art Deco jewelry of the 1920s and 30s.

Ewer, late 10th-early 11th century, rock crystal, with enameled gold repairs and fittings by Jean-Valentin Morel (1794-1860), French, The Keir Collection of Islamic Art on loan to the Dallas Museum of Art, K.1.2014.1.A-B. Photo: Image provided courtesy of Dallas Museum of Art

The third section of the exhibition is organized around a lexicon of forms—a vocabulary without grammar rules—inspired by Islamic art. From the early 20th century through the early 1930s, under the direction of Louis Cartier Islamic architecture, manuscripts, and textiles were among the Maison’s primary sources of inspiration. These were also made available to its designers, including Jacqueau, through 19th- and early 20th-century portfolios of ornament, architecture, and photography housed in Cartier’s study library. These materials informed a number of characteristic motifs, ranging from the simple geometry of triangles to the naturalistic renderings of cypress trees.

Exhibition view, Cartier and Islamic Art: In Search of Modernity, Dallas Museum of Art, Dallas, TX, US, photo courtesy of Dallas Museum of Art

Although the objects are arranged according to individual motifs, most contain variations of multiple shapes or forms. In these various groupings, one can explore how a lexicon of forms crosses media, time, material, and function in a spectacular assembly of creative vision. Here is one of the spaces where wall-sized projections of specific works are radically enlarged to immerse exhibition attendees in the artistry and craft of the works themselves, often revealing things not readily visible to the naked eye.

Exhibition view, Cartier and Islamic Art: In Search of Modernity, Dallas Museum of Art, Dallas, TX, US, photo courtesy of Dallas Museum of Art

The final section offers concluding examples of the ways designers integrate the influence of Islamic art and architecture. Works from India and North Africa introduced designers to new techniques and color combinations. Sometimes the workshop would not only study the forms but also create new works by revitalizing or modernizing fragments of existing jewels, objects, or textiles from India, Iran, and Morocco, among other places.

Exhibition view, Cartier and Islamic Art: In Search of Modernity, Dallas Museum of Art, Dallas, TX, US, photo courtesy of Dallas Museum of Art

In 1933, Louis Cartier left the artistic direction of the Paris branch to Jeanne Toussaint, with whom he had worked closely for a long time. Prior to that, Toussaint had headed the S Department—S for “silver” or S for “soir”—evening. The S Department was in charge of designing practical objects that were often only lightly adorned. Until the 1970s, Toussaint followed the creative direction introduced by Louis Cartier, all the while bringing her own style and innovations. A collector of Indian jewelry, she encouraged the workshops to use all of the parts of a piece of Indian jewelry by unmounting it and remounting it with a different juxtaposition of elements. Particularly fond of jewels with a three-dimensional aspect, she had gemstones cut into beads set en masse. These became necklaces with numerous strands of mixed stones. In the 1970s, the Maison reflected the mood of the hippie movement, creating long strand necklaces and Berber-inspired pieces.

Tiara, Cartier London, special order, 1936. Platinum, diamonds, turquoise. Sold to The Honorable Robert Henry Brand. Cartier Collection. Vincent Wulveryck, Collection Cartier copyright Cartier

The design strategies in this exhibition—motif, pattern, color, and form—reveal the inspirations, innovations, and aesthetic wonder present in the works of the Maison Cartier. Focused through the lens of Islamic art, it reveals how the Maison migrates and manifests these styles over time, as well as how they are shaped by individual creativity. Today, Islamic art still inspires Cartier’s designers, and the Maison continues to explore innovative design arcs—an endless rotation of evolution and revolution—in its creations.

Head ornament, Cartier New York, circa 1924. Platinum, white gold, pink gold, one 4.01-carat pear-shaped diamond, five briolette-cut diamonds weighing 5.22 carats in total, round old-, single- and rose-cut diamonds, feathers, millegrain setting. Cartier Collection. Marian Gérard, Cartier Collection copyright Cartier

Through the lens of the Maison Cartier and Louis Cartier himself, visitors can explore sources of inspiration and the evolution of designs through September 18, 2022. While the catalog delves into the groundbreaking scholarship of the curatorial team, the DMA installation shifts focus on object looking, creating layered, overlapping moments where motif, color, form, and material are experienced through a kaleidoscope of juxtapositions. Co-curated by Sarah Schleuning, The Margot B. Perot Senior Curator of Decorative Arts and Design at the DMA; Heather Ecker, the former Marguerite S. Hoffman and Thomas W. Lentz Curator of Islamic and Medieval Art at the DMA; Évelyne Possémé, former Chief Curator of Ancient and Modern Jewelry at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris; and Judith Hénon, Curator and Deputy Director of the Department of Islamic Art at the Musée du Louvre, Paris, the curatorial narrative is enhanced by the elegant, minimalist galleries and digital media designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro (NYC).

Casket with drawers and marquetry decor. Islamic, 19th CE, photo courtesy Dallas Museum of Art

The post Cartier and Islamic Art appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

AJF in Conversation: Collecting—The Next Generation

$
0
0

AJF visited Munich, Germany, for a special summer version of the annual Schmuck exhibition known as Munich Jewellery Week, July 6 to March 10, 2022. This is the time when international jewelry artists, collectors, galleries, and everyone interested in art jewelry gathers in one place. The video below is AJF in Conversation: Collecting: The Next Generation with moderator: Christian Hoedl and panelists: Mallory Weston, Paulo Ribiero, Juan Harnie and Dennis Pellens.

The post AJF in Conversation: Collecting—The Next Generation appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

How Is the Next Generation Collecting?

$
0
0

During Schmuck, we presented AJF in Conversation: Collecting—The Next Generation. Gallerist and curator Christian Hoedl moderated the discussion. The panelists were:

  • Artist and educator Mallory Weston, who teaches jewelry at Tyler School of Art and Architecture
  • Joya organizer Paulo Ribeiro
  • Collectors and life partners Juan Harnie and Dennis Pellens. Harnie studied jewelry making at university. He works as a book seller, and Pellens is in lighting retail

We recorded the event, which took place on July 9, 2022, in Galerie Handwerk’s auditorium. This photo essay pulls out the key talking points from the panel, accompanied by photos of pieces in the speakers’ collections, which you can’t clearly see in the video. You can watch the video here … so you have two ways of getting similar information.

Thank you so much to all who participated!

The post How Is the Next Generation Collecting? appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

Checking in with Aaron Decker

$
0
0

More than 100 international artists applied for this year’s Young Artist Award. Aaron Decker was chosen as one of the finalists. He received an unrestricted cash award of US$1,000 and exhibited his work in Platina’s booth at Schmuck, in July 2022. This summer, the Danner Foundation acquired work by Aaron Decker titled fool me twice. The demi-parure was part of Decker’s second solo exhibition with Ornamentum and was one of the many works placed into collections, including cut my teeth (at Yale Art Gallery) and lil bomb (private collection).

Aaron Decker, fool me twice
Aaron Decker, fool me twice, 2021, demi-parure (necklace, keychain), enamel, silver, copper, nickel, necklace 965 mm long, gray pendant 114 x 76 x 64 mm, enamel pendant 102 x 76 x 51 mm, photo: Jenn Bondy

AJF’s Young Artist Award acknowledges promise, innovation, and individuality, advancing the careers of rising artists. The competition was open to makers of wearable art age 35 and under who are not currently enrolled in a professional training program. Judging was based on originality, depth of concept, and quality of craftsmanship. This year’s jurors were 2020 AJF Artist Award winner MJ Tyson (US); collector and gallerist Karen Rotenberg (US); and educator and curator Chequita Nahar (The Netherlands).

This is the fourth of our interviews with the honorees. Read the interview with Young Artist Award winner Mallory Weston here. Our interview with finalist Taisha Carrington is here. Check out Marion Delarue’s interview here.

Decker’s work represents a group of outstanding pieces of contemporary jewelry. We asked him to tell us a bit about his background and thoughts on the future of the art jewelry field.

Aaron Decker, fool me twice
Aaron Decker, fool me twice, 2021, demi-parure (necklace, keychain), enamel, silver, copper, nickel, necklace 965 mm long, gray pendant 114 x 76 x 64 mm, enamel pendant 102 x 76 x 51 mm, photo: Jenn Bondy

Bonnie Levine: Congratulations on being one of the five finalists of the 2022 Artist Award competition. What an accomplishment! Tell us a little about yourself. How did you become interested in jewelry, and what inspires your work?

Aaron Decker: I became interested in jewelry through my grandfather. He was a clock smith who opened his own shop after years working in a shoe factory. When I was young, I’d spend time tinkering with his tools, moving tiny parts around with tweezers, and often breaking things in the process. My parents were in the military, so we bounced between coastal bases every two years, making the time I got to spend with my grandfather something rare and cherished. I still remember getting an overdue haircut at Buzzy’s with him and him teasing me about my unkempt “teenage” look.

I lost a lot when he passed in 2010. In hopes of finding a continued connection with him, I took a jewelry course at Maine College of Art. I had been studying English literature and writing at the University of Southern Maine, but a strong urge led me to an art department and a jewelry class—it was the closest I could get to watchmaking. As it turns out, it was the first thing I fell in love with. It clicked, it made sense, it just worked, and I felt like I could express myself and experience the challenge of the methodology. To my parent’s dismay, I dropped out of my English major, went to art school, traveled the world looking at jewelry, made my way to Cranbrook Academy of Art for my master’s, and now work full time as a product development manager for Shinola Detroit, while aggressively pursuing my studio practice.

Aaron Decker, yellow bird bomb
Aaron Decker, yellow bird bomb, 2021, brooch/art object, enamel, copper, silver, 100 x 50 x 50 mm, photo: artist

My work is embedded in my youth. When you grow up on military bases, you get desensitized to violence, war, the military. I draw from a number of sources: childhood toys, memories of being on base, camouflage, guns, bombs, Polly Pockets, etc. I play with several ingredients and force myself to confront something that I discover in the work, in the content.

Aaron Decker, mace face
Aaron Decker, mace face, 2021, demi-parure (necklace, keychain, pendant), enamel, silver, copper, nickel, 100 x 150 x 57 mm, necklace 760 mm long, photo: Jenn Bondy

What does being a finalist mean for you? Do you think it will influence you going forward?

Aaron Decker: First, I want to thank the committee and AJF. I am overjoyed and humbled to be a finalist. It motivates me to continue pursuing new work, an energy easily depleted while working alone in a studio with only my thoughts. Being a finalist means I have energy and support to continue. I’ve had moments in my career where people have extended gifts for my studies, purchased works, supported my practice in a connection—all those things influenced how I push forward. This recognition is more fire in my belly. I think it has a huge influence and I cannot wait to watch all my co-finalists’ and winner’s trajectories.

Aaron Decker, mace face
Aaron Decker, mace face, 2021, demi-parure (necklace, keychain, pendant), enamel, silver, copper, nickel, 100 x 150 x 57 mm, necklace 760 mm long, photo: Jenn Bondy

Tell us about the work you applied with.

Aaron Decker: I applied with a body of work that premiered at Ornamentum in 2021. The exhibition, it’s (not) all fun and games, comes from experiences I had when I was a teenager. My father had noticed some things “off” about me, some feminine tendencies. And in response, he had me watch a movie about John Wayne Gacy, a serial murderer who raped and slaughtered at least 3 young men and was believed to be a closeted homosexual. The message was clear: if you were queer, you were a clown, you were a killer, you’d get found out.

In this body of work, I tried to make clown patterns, morphological ability of identity and parts, and a palpable, malevolent presence. This set of pieces wasn’t cathartic, but it did make something tangible: to see that experience, to reclaim it, to preserve it as objects. I’ve often explored this line of inquiry, which I worry relates to many queer people: “What am I hiding, who am I hiding it from, how can I hide it better?” That moment in my childhood made me want to hide, made me want to avoid being a queer clown because of the fear others had for a single figure.

Aaron Decker, strap in
Aaron Decker, strap in, 2021, demi-parure (necklace/keychain), enamel, silver, copper, nickel, 275 x 75 x 25 mm, necklace 660 mm long, photo: Jenn Bondy

The works play between components and fully formed works. They’re fluid objects, taking their beings less seriously, and resigning themselves in the prospect of being apart from themselves. Metal keychains, enamel treated as a less serious material, toys made from nickel, copper, and glass.

Being queer, I tend to think of things as unresolved, in the process of making, or being undone, and that applies to the techniques I use. Enamel and metalwork have openings that can be exploited because they are such settled, canonical techniques. People struggle to find ways to approach these disciplines and techniques new ways; my solution has been just to address enamel as one with a serious historic past open to be taken less seriously, to be undermined by poor treatment, and then to approach metalworking as though I am making “found” objects. In two ways I am trying to take the piss out of the material. These material traditions are like my dad: he tells me what I “should” be doing and I sit in my teenage self and say, “Screw that!”

Aaron Decker, lil bomb blue
Aaron Decker, lil bomb blue, 2021, pin/art object, enamel, silver, copper, 21 x 21 x 21 mm, photo: artist

What excites you about the art jewelry field?

Aaron Decker: The potential of art jewelry and the crafts broadly is astounding. I remember in grad school discussing questions like, “Who is making interesting work?” or “Is the field just dying?” The attitude underlying these questions fueled my practice. It pushed me to make. Jewelry has a rich history, an amazing group of thinkers, individual artists without formal training coming into the field, and a lack of a concrete definition. What is art jewelry? It’s exciting. The unknown is exciting.

Aaron Decker, cut my teeth
Aaron Decker, cut my teeth, 2021, demi-parure (necklace/brooch/pendant), enamel, silver, copper, lacquer, 18-karat gold, 200 x 75 x 50 mm, photo: Jenn Bondy

Any frustrations that you see or have experienced?

Aaron Decker: Perhaps this misreads the question, but I want to highlight a frustration I believe is common for many contemporary young artists. I struggle daily to balance the competing demands of my studio practice and work life. I had the privileged opportunity to attend two private art universities. I was certain I needed to study at these institutions if I wanted to become a studio artist, and am better for it. But to do so, I took on debt, as do most students at these schools when presented with the chance to pursue their passion. Today, I work full-time just to ensure the interest [on the student loans] doesn’t spiral out of hand; my practice gets shoved into night hours and weekends, after I come home tired from my corporate position.

My successes, exhibitions, and recognitions experienced as a young artist feel strung together by long periods of treading water, where that future for which I attended art school to begin with—to be a full-time practicing studio artist—remains out of reach, on the other side of a mountain of debt I must first overcome. As someone with a relatively successful practice, I struggle with understanding how to make art jewelry a sustainable future. Does this inform how we think about the numerous young artists whose practices falter early in their careers? We as a community often bemoan the death of craft—I’m frustrated that we engage with that conversation so easily without openly and honestly talking about what changes would help support a generation of artists committing to craft as a career.

Aaron Decker, cut my teeth
Aaron Decker, cut my teeth, 2021, demi-parure (necklace/brooch/pendant), enamel, silver, copper, lacquer, 18-karat gold, 200 x 75 x 50 mm, photo: Jenn Bondy

Where do you think the art jewelry field is going? Are there new and exciting trends that you see?

Aaron Decker: I think jewelers today engage in more commercial/wearable works and I think it’s a realistic shift due to the job markets, economy, student loans, number of galleries, etc. I am very excited about that. There is a ton of bad commercial and fashion jewelry. I want more of the artists I see making incredible work to show the industry what art jewelry is made of and how it can improve upon commercialized pieces.

I am also excited by the lean into socially engaged, politically oriented, and materially conscious works. The materiality and wearability of jewelry is overdue for rich discussion. I am humbled by the numerous artists whose work I admire, and I’m grateful I get to call them my peers.

Aaron Decker, blue axe bomb
Aaron Decker, blue axe bomb, 2021, locket/pendant, enamel, copper, silver, lacquer, 50 x 50 x 76 mm, necklace 560 mm long, photo: artist

If you could write a master plan for your practice, where would you like to be five years from now?

Aaron Decker: I would love to be in my studio making my work for as many hours a week as I’d like. Not just because it can sustain my living, but because I love to be in the chaos of thought, make, repeat. I want kids, and to be where I am now mentally in a body of work—a bit lost, a bit excited, a bit frustrated, and [with] an itch to make—it’s all I can ask for.

Aaron Decker, blue axe bomb Aaron Decker, blue axe bomb

Congratulations again, Aaron! Thank you very much.

The post Checking in with Aaron Decker appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

Art Jewelry Forum Announces the 2023 Susan Beech Mid-Career Grant Guidelines and Jury

$
0
0
Susan Beech, the founder of the Susan Beech Mid-Career Grant

San Antonio, Texas, US—Art Jewelry Forum (AJF) is pleased to announce this international grant opportunity for mid-career artists. Established by San Francisco-based jewelry collector Susan Beech, this $20,000 grant has as its objective to recognize a mid-career artist who has made a substantial contribution to the field of art jewelry.

The jury of distinguished professionals for this grant cycle will be: AJF founder and collector Susan Cummins (US); curator and historian LaMar Gayles (US); and jewelry historian, curator, and author Beatriz Chadour-Sampson (UK).

  • Beatriz Chadour-Sampson has been curator for 35 years of the Alice and Louis Koch Collection, at the Swiss National Museum. At the Victoria and Albert Museum, she was consultant curator for the redesign of the William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery and guest curator of the Pearls exhibition. She regularly teaches jewelry history courses.
  •  LaMar Gayles has curated exhibitions on Black American jewelry and its historical progressions from the 17th to the 21st centuries, including the 2021 exhibition Divine Legacies in Black Jewelry and Metals, at the Metal Museum. His research explores material and visual culture.
  •  Susan Cummins has developed a serious contemporary jewelry collection over the past 15 years. She co-wrote the books In Flux: American Jewelry and the Counterculture and North by Northwest: The Jewelry of Laurie Hall. She is currently working on and funding other books.

 The Susan Beech Mid-Career Grant is open to makers between the ages of 35 and 55 at the time of the proposal deadline. The proposed project should be about jewelry, loosely defined. The grant recipient will receive an unrestricted cash grant of $20,000, to be paid over the two years in which the project will be implemented.

(Left to right) Jurors Beatriz Chadour-Sampson, LaMar Gayles, and Susan Cummins, photos courtesy of the respective individuals

Applications will be accepted starting November 1, 2022. The deadline to apply is 11:59 PM, MST, on Sunday, January 8, 2023. More information and complete guidelines can be found here.

Contact: Marta Costa Reis
Email: ajfartistaward@artjewelryforum.org

 

About AJF

Art Jewelry Forum is a nonprofit organization spreading awareness and increasing appreciation of art jewelry worldwide since 1997. AJF advocates for art jewelry through an ambitious agenda of education, conversation, and financial support. It commissions critical writing that sets the standard for excellence in the field and publishes artjewelryforum.org, an online resource for original content on art jewelry.

The post Art Jewelry Forum Announces the 2023 Susan Beech Mid-Career Grant Guidelines and Jury appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.


On Offer

$
0
0

September 2022, Part 1

There are so many reasons to purchase art jewelry…

  • You got that hard-earned promotion—celebrate!
  • You’re experiencing a once-in-a-lifetime occasion—honor it.
  • You wrapped up that major accomplishment—pay it tribute.
  • You want to mark the beginning of a new relationship or the end of one—commemorate it.
  • Perhaps it’s an investment—do it!
  • It’s the perfect piece to round out an aspect of your collection—pounce!
  • Or maybe it’s as a treat for yourself—just because.

Art Jewelry Forum’s international gallery supporters celebrate and exhibit art jewelry. Our monthly On Offer series allows this extensive network of international galleries to showcase extraordinary pieces personally selected to tempt and inspire you. Take a look. You’re bound to find a fantastic piece you simply have to add to your collection! (Please contact the gallery directly for inquiries.)

Andrea Wagner, Golden Waters Cave under Amber Lakes-1 (sub-series … And the Architect Is still Facing His Jardin Intérieur)
Andrea Wagner, Golden Waters Cave under Amber Lakes-1 (sub-series … And the Architect Is Still Facing His Jardin Intérieur), 2018, silver, amber, color-stained bone china porcelain, glass-resin composite, paper, fluorescent pigment, stainless steel, 100 x 60 x 50 mm, photo: artist

Gallery: Galerie Spektrum
Contact: Jürgen Eickhoff
Artist: Andrea Wagner
Retail price: €2,280

A wonderful brooch with a fantastic title from an outstanding Dutch/German artist.

Caio Mahin, Der Struwwelpeter I
Caio Mahin, Der Struwwelpeter I, 2021, brooch, fabric, thread, foam, sterling silver, 180 x 100 x 30 mm, photo: Benedikt Adler

Gallery: Galeria Tereza Seabra
Contact: Tereza Seabra
Artist: Caio Mahin
Retail price: €380, plus shipping

Currently studying at Campus Idar-Oberstein, Caio Mahin makes work that is all about fairy tales, as cultural themes like racism and sexism are often based on them. His goal is to open a politicized look at these stories by showing how they affect adult behavior, but also to overcome and twist narratives that often exclude non-normative bodies or turn them into obscure ones. In doing so, German folk tales have proven to be a great contribution to his canon, as have old toys, the mechanisms of which create clear narratives.

Jennifer Laracy, Souvenir
Jennifer Laracy, Souvenir, 2022, bracelet, Paua shell, sterling silver, 205 x 25 x 5 mm, photo: Michael Couper

Gallery: Fingers Gallery
Contact: Lisa Higgins
Artist: Jennifer Laracy
Retail price: NZ$1,610

Jennifer Laracy has a story to tell. The work in her most recent show is a tribute in objects to her late grandfather and jeweler Morris Lionel Win, born in Waimea South, Nelson, NZ, in 1915. Laracy is echoing her grandfather’s palette by restricting her usually broad material library to Paua shell, silver, and gold. Letting her hands do the thinking, she makes peace with Paua’s complex history, and using techniques passed down through the generations, honors the life and work of an important family member and mentor. Laracy lives and works in New Plymouth, New Zealand.

Philip Sajet, Wolves
Philip Sajet, Wolves, 2022, necklace, niello on silver, rubies, pearls, gold, approximately 250 x 150 x 40 mm, photo courtesy of the artist and Galerie Door

Gallery: Galerie Door
Contact: Doreen Timmers
Artist: Philip Sajet
Retail price: €8,000

This marvelous Wolves necklace, by Philip Sajet (1953, Amsterdam), shows that his work still occupies an exceptional position in the art jewelry landscape. Sajet’s work tells of the jewel, beauty, and seduction, and his craftsmanship is phenomenal. Sajet made this necklace especially for the exhibition Flowers and Wolves. It consists of five wolves’ heads—cut and folded from thin silver plate—with red eyes and a rough niello surface. The coarse niello, the dangerous wolf, contrasts and is kept in check by the soft shine of pearls laced with gold thread. Flowers and Wolves is the 20th exhibition and the start of the fifth anniversary of Galerie Door. On display until November 5, 2022.

Jiro Kamata, Holon Necklace #21
Jiro Kamata, Holon Necklace #21, 2022, necklace, camera lens, PVD coating, silver, total length 620 mm, photo: artist

Gallery: ATTA Gallery
Contact: Atty Tantivit
Artist: Jiro Kamata
Retail price: 203,500 THB

This eye-catching, one-of-a-kind necklace is from Jiro Kamata’s newest series, Holon. The Holon series has been exhibited at Alien Art Center in Kaohsiung, Taiwan, in a duo exhibition with a French photographer titled Hope; during Munich Jewelry Week in a group exhibition; and now at ATTA Gallery, in Bangkok, in a joint solo exhibition with a Thai photographer. A necklace from the Holon series was recently acquired by the Museum of Arts and Design, in NYC.

Simon Williams, Pipes Ring
Simon Williams, Pipes Ring, 2017, oxidized sterling silver, ring size T, 30 x 38 x 8 mm, photo: artist

Gallery: Zu design
Contact: Jane
Artist: Simon Williams
Retail price: AUS$880

Simon Williams created the Pipes series after he saw pipe organs on a trip to Copenhagen. The collection of different-sized polished tubes which create varying notes were reminiscent of geological forms that he had seen the week before in Iceland. These pieces are a perfect combination of Williams’s passion for both geological forms and contemporary jewelry.

Jacqueline Ryan, Clover Circlet earrings
Jacqueline Ryan, Clover Circlet earrings, 18-karat gold, vitreous enamel, 17 x 17 x 4 mm, photo courtesy of Thereza Pedrosa Gallery

Gallery: Thereza Pedrosa Gallery
Contact: Thereza Pedrosa

Artist: Jacqueline Ryan

Retail price: €1,700

Jacqueline Ryan’s works are micro natural cosmos captured in the eternity of gold and enamel. Each creation, inspired by natural elements such as plants, leaves, and sea creatures, comes to life the moment it is worn and interacts with the wearer.

 

Karin Roy Andersson, Necklace
Karin Roy Andersson, Necklace, 2022, naturally tanned reindeer leather, silver, steel, thread, 300 x 220 mm, photo: Sofia Björkman

Gallery: Platina Stockholm
Contact: Sofia Björkman
Artist: Karin Roy Andersson
Retail price: US$1,900

A constant search for new materials to recycle, and the interplay between her and the qualities of the materials—these challenge and motivate Karin Roy Andersson. The series with reindeer leather began when she collaborated with a Sami woman from Sapmi, in the north. The two artists have shared materials, experiences, and sources of inspiration, knowledge, and techniques.

Marie-Louise Kristensen, Dirigent
Marie-Louise Kristensen, Dirigent, 2021, brooch, wood, copper, silver, 170 x 90 x 35 mm, photo: Dorte Krogh

Gallery: Four Gallery
Contact: Karin Roy Andersson
Artist: Marie-Louise Kristensen
Retail price: US$1,500

Marie-Louise Kristensen is a storyteller. Her work consists of everyday impressions and observations but also her own additions and reflections. With humor, warmth, and some sharp arrows, Kristensen creates a universe with a very special gravity.

J Taran Diamond, Slippage III
J Taran Diamond, Slippage III, 2022, brooch, braiding hair, silicone, titanium, steel, thread, 89 x 279 mm, photo courtesy of the Baltimore Jewelry Center

Gallery: Baltimore Jewelry Center
Contact: Shane Prada
Artist: J Taran Diamond
Retail price: US$315

J Taran Diamond is a metalsmith and interdisciplinary craft artist based in Athens, GA. They study and teach at the University of Georgia and hold a BFA from the University of North Texas. Diamond’s work has been exhibited nationally and internationally, including exhibitions at New York City Jewelry Week, Munich Jewelry Week, and the Czong Institute of Contemporary Art in Gimpo, South Korea. Outside of the studio, Diamond is an advocate for Black people in academia, and works to dismantle the systemic barriers that make higher education inaccessible to Black people. They created this work during their recent one-month artist residency at the Baltimore Jewelry Center.

Sophie Hanagarth, Face à Face
Sophie Hanagarth, Face à Face, 2022, bracelet, forged pure iron, photo: Noel Guyomarc’h

Gallery: Galerie Noel Guyomarc’h
Contact: Noel Guyomarc’h
Artist: Sophie Hanagarth
Retail price: CAN$1,325

Sophie Hanagarth continues her search for symbols. With finesse, with exceptional know-how, and a sense of volume, she forges iron to destabilize us from the usual forms of jewelry. This cuff bracelet, Face à Face, very different from its Traquenards (Traps) series, imposes itself with force and unequivocally on the wrist.

The post On Offer appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

OMG, Have You Heard

$
0
0

September 2022, Part 1

 Art Jewelry Forum is pleased to share the news that members of our community find noteworthy. Is something missing? The success of this compilation of compelling events, news, and items of interest to the jewelry community depends on YOUR participation. If you’re a member of AJF at the Silver level or above, you can add news and ideas to this bi-monthly report by going here. If you aren’t a member, but would like to become one, join AJF here.
Listings gathered with assistance from Carrie Yodanis.

FEEL LIKE SEEING A JEWELRY SHOW?

Find these listings and many, many more on our dedicated exhibition page:

  • Stefano Marchetti, Carla Nuis, and Sondra Sherman, at Galerie Marzee through September 17, 2022
  • Three Worlds, at ATTA Gallery through September 18, 2022
  • Pierce Healy: Memory Maps Part II and Annika Pettersson: Digital Artefacts, at Platina Stockholm through September 24, 2022
  • Cycle by Katrin Feulner, at Jewelers’Werk September 10–30, 2022
  • Marie-Louise Kristensen solo exhibition, at Four Gallery through October 8, 2022
  • Flowers and Wolves: Philip Sajet and Violeta Adomaitytė, at Galerie Door through November 5, 2022
  • Lobe: An Exploration of the Earring, at Fingers

ANNOUNCING THE 2023 SUSAN BEECH MID-CAREER GRANT JURY

Susan Cummins, LaMar Gayles, and Beatriz Chadour-Sampson will serve as jurors. The $20,000 grant recognizes a mid-career artist who has made a substantial contribution to art jewelry. Open to makers aged 35–55. Applications will be accepted starting November 1, 2022. Info.

 

FROM OUR MEMBERS

WHAT’S IT LIKE TO SEE CELEBRITIES WEARING YOUR JEWELS?

Barbara Klar knows, and she’ll tell you about it on the Jewelry Journey podcast. Listen.


FOCUS SYMPOSIUM: SIGNS, SIGNALS, AND SYMBOLS

At Baltimore Jewelry Center, in person and online, October 1 and 2, 2022. Via workshops, demonstrations, and presentations, the free event will explore the role that jewelry plays as a cultural signifier. Throughout history, jewelry has visually indicated a wearer’s preferences, characteristics, attitudes, and beliefs. Learn and discuss how jewelry and wearable art relate to political movements, gender, and sexual identity, as well as cultural communication and practices. Info.


“PHARMAKOS: ADORNMENT AS A SOCIAL TOOL”

In her PhD research and accompanying publication, Vivi Touloumidi investigates adornment as an active agent to address social discomfort, repression, and marginalization. Confrontation through wearability is achieved via the gesture of decoration. Her project appropriates and subverts signs of stigmatization employed during WWII, and proposes new pieces that speak of resilience, emancipation, and self-determination. Info.


DANNER FOUNDATION ACQUIRED FOOL ME TWICE, BY AARON DECKER

The demi-parure was part of Decker’s second solo exhibition with Ornamentum and was one of many works placed into collections, including cut my teeth (at Yale Art Gallery) and lil bomb (private collection). In the coming months, Decker will premiere designed objects at Salon, NY, and Design Miami. In 2023, he will premiere two bodies of work: Morning Star, at Galerie Reverso, and All the King’s Men, at Ornamentum.­­


SEE THE PEARL EXHIBITION DURING LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL

With work by Caroline Broadhead, Lin Cheung, Melanie Georgacopoulos, Maria Militsi, and Frances Wadsworth Jones. At S E A S O N Gallery (formerly Gallery S O), September 21–25, 2022. Info.


BELLA NEYMAN’S JEWELRY JAUNTS

Join Christie’s and Neyman on five weeks of jewelry adventures around NYC. See some of the most beautiful and unusual jewels crafted over the last two centuries in person. Starts September 23, 2022. Info.


LISA WALKER AND KARL FRITSCH FEATURED IN APARTAMENTO MAGAZINE

See issue #28. Francis Upritchard interviewed them, and Harry Were took the photos.


KONTRAPUNKT EXHIBITION: SEPTEMBER 13–18, 2022

Held during Budapest Jewelry Week, but not part of the juried entries. Opening on Tuesday, September 13, at 17:10; studio/in-conversation talk, moderated by Lieta Marziali, on Saturday, September 17, at 16:00. At K.A.S Galéria.

 

 

 


CONGRATULATIONS TO THIS YEAR’S ACC FELLOWS

Among the 11 fellows announced by the American Craft Council, two work in jewelry: Teri Greeves and Keith Lewis. Greeves beads sneakers, stilettos, books, and sculptures, as well as jewelry. Lewis creates pins, brooches, necklaces, and rings that confront gay male sexual identity, memory (Victorian mourning jewelry), loss (AIDS), and the body.


BEVERLEY PRICE IS STARTING MASTER’S STUDY ON NAZI DENTAL GOLD

She hopes to find primary evidence of the Nazi high orders for gold extraction and the Sonderkommando’s improvised gold-refining processes. She’ll compare this to the standard gold-refining process and will create a syllabus for goldsmithing students to offer to schools around the world. Price has a full-tuition scholarship at Haifa University, Israel, but seeks help with living expenses. Contact her.


WHO DOESN’T WANT EARRINGS, NECKLACES, & BROOCHES MADE FROM FRENCH FRY CONTAINERS AND SODA CUPS?

To combat the trash generated in streets outside its restaurants, the Netherlands arm of McDonald’s has introduced a limited-edition collection of gold and gold-plated jewelry made from real trash. The only people “lucky” enough to wear this bling will be those who put their waste in special trash cans, gaining them an entry into a giveaway. Pavlovian! Learn more.

 

EVENTS

BUDAPEST JEWELRY WEEK: SEPTEMBER 12–18, 2022

Info. 


ROMANIAN JEWELRY WEEK: OCTOBER 6–9, 2022

Learn more.


SEATTLE METALS GUILD SYMPOSIUM: OCTOBER 15, 2022

In-person. There will be five presentations from artists who live and work in the Pacific Northwest; Charon Kransen’s book sale, with the man himself there; a silent auction. Info.


MILANO JEWELRY WEEK: OCTOBER 20–23, 2022

It will unfold in historic buildings, high jewelry ateliers, goldsmith workshops, academies, art galleries, fashion boutiques and design showrooms. Information.


ISRAEL BIENNALE OF CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY: NOVEMBER 10–14, 2022

Hosted by the Geological Museum, in Ramat Hasharon. Info.


CLUSTER CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY FAIR: DECEMBER 9–11, 2022

With the theme “Sentient,” the fair’s mission is to abolish the still-persisting association of jewelry as a token of exclusivity and luxury, and an assertion of power. It will embrace another, much deeper and more authentic purpose of jewels and other bodily adornments as spiritual talismans that connect the individual to their community and to a higher knowledge. In London. Info.

OPPORTUNITIES

HARRIETE ESTEL BERMAN SEEKS A PART-TIME STUDIO ASSISTANT

Berman’s studio is in San Mateo, CA. Contact her via FB or her website.


OPEN CALL: [QUEERPHORIA], DURING NYCJW 2022

What does being queer mean in relation to materiality? Is the work queer because the maker is queer, or is it queer because the subject matter is queer? Do people experience queer joy from wearing work made by a queer artist? Accepted work will be paired with the artists’ written responses on the Queer Metalsmiths website to encourage community and visibility by connecting makers and viewers in a more meaningful way. Deadline: September 23, 2022. Info.


CALL FOR ENTRY: CRAFTFORMS 2022

Wayne Art Center seeks submissions for the 27th International Juried Exhibition of Contemporary Fine Craft. Work created utilizing CAD/CAM technologies and 3D printing tools is eligible. Selected works will be on display December 2, 2022­–January 21, 2023. Jeannine Falino will serve as juror. Info.


CALL FOR ENTRY: AMERICAN GEM TRADE ASSOCIATION’S SPECTRUM AWARDS

Mail-in deadline: September 23. Info.


CALL FOR ENTRY: Materials: Hard + Soft 2023

Now in its 35th year, the exhibition shows the top national and international artists, celebrating the evolving field of contemporary craft and the remarkable creativity and innovation of artists who push the boundaries of their chosen media. Deadline: October 14, 2022. Info.


CALL FOR ENTRY: SNAG’S HOPE IS RESILIENCY

A multifaceted exhibition and sale that seeks to highlight SNAG’s diverse membership. Submissions will be considered for three main components: an in-person exhibition at New York City Jewelry Week; inclusion in Metalsmith magazine, Vol 42 No 3 (November); and an online exhibition. Jurors: Angelik Vizcarrondo-Laboy and Nora McCarthy for the in-person exhibition and magazine. All submissions will be included in the online exhibition and sale. All submissions must be available for purchase through January 2023. Deadline: September 15, 2022.


CALL FOR ENTRY: TALENTE—MASTERS OF THE FUTURE

An annual competition for new talent in the areas of design and technology, on show at the International Trade Fair Munich, March 8–12, 2023. The focus is on work that’s ahead of its time and shines through its formal and technical originality and technical perfection. Deadline: October 3, 2022. Info.

 


RESIDENCY AT FRANÇOISE VAN DEN BOSCH FOUNDATION

For May–June 2023. Non-Dutch artists only. Studio and apartment provided, plus an amount toward expenses. Offered by Rian de Jong and her partner Herman Marres. Deadline: September 15, 2022. Info.

The post OMG, Have You Heard appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

The Françoise van den Bosch Foundation

$
0
0

Contemporary jewelry has many foundations, awards, and grants, all of them a bit different. The Françoise van den Bosch Foundation,[1] named after a Dutch artist who died young, has been a well-established institution for over 40 years. How did it achieve this, when others have vanished in the mists of time?

Françoise van den Bosch in her studio
Françoise van den Bosch in her studio, at Noordermarkt 17, Amsterdam, 1975, photo: Françoise van den Bosch Foundation

A sketch of the foundation

“To stimulate and promote contemporary jewelry.” Although its activities have expanded, this has been the foundation’s unaltered aim since its start in 1980. Today the foundation’s main undertakings are an award, a collection, and a residency, plus one-off activities such as talks, essay commissions, and collection presentations.

Manami Aoki, brooch from the Hair of the Wood series
Manami Aoki, brooch from the Hair of the Wood series, 2018, cypress, silver, stainless steel, photo: Françoise van den Bosch Foundation/courtesy of the artist. This was the foundation’s Piet-Hein Verspyck Mijnssen young talent acquisition 2019

When Françoise van den Bosch[2] (1944–1977) died, she left behind her own work and pieces that she had swapped with contemporaries such as Gijs Bakker and Ruudt Peters. From this core, the foundation’s collection has grown every year—either with work acquired from award winners, donations, mid-career acquisitions, and young talent acquisitions. The latter applies to artists under the age of 33—Françoise’s age at death. With 400 pieces, the foundation’s collection is not the Danner Stiftung, but it is not small, either. Housed in the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam, its preservation is in good hands but there is no guarantee of display.[3]

Conversation Piece (Beatrice Brovia and Nicolas Cheng), Gold Rush
Conversation Piece (Beatrice Brovia and Nicolas Cheng), Gold Rush, pendant, 2016, gold-plated quartz crystal from e-waste, silver, hand-woven reflective thread, electrical solder, photo: Conversation Piece/Françoise van den Bosch Foundation. This was the foundation’s early career acquisition 2021

Since 2011, jewelry artist Rian de Jong has facilitated an artist-in-residence program in her Amsterdam studio-apartment.[4] Among past guests: Moniek Schrijer, Florian Weichsberger, Mallory Weston and, this year, Triin Kukk. Probably coincidentally, US artists are overrepresented.

Florian Weichsberger, Untitled, brooch from the DECONTEXT series
Florian Weichsberger, Untitled, brooch from the DECONTEXT series, 2019, plastic, polyester resin, steel, photo: Mirei Takeuchi/Françoise van den Bosch Foundation. This was the foundation’s artist-in-residence acquisition 2018

But most likely you know the foundation for its biennial Françoise van den Bosch Award. This prize has been awarded to an impressive list of jewelry makers including Marion Herbst, Otto Künzli, Onno Boekhoudt, Esther Knobel, Bernhard Schobinger, Lisa Walker, and most recently, Chequita Nahar.[5]

Chequita Nahar, Kra Fanga Lin Cheung, Jewellery Library

The Françoise van den Bosch Award

This award honors the entire career of an artist, not only their most recent work. Every other year, an independent jury of international experts—including the previous winner and one board member—deliberates behind closed doors. Only the outcome—that much anticipated name—is communicated. There is no open call, no shortlist, no exhibition of submissions, as for the Herbert Hofmann Preis and the show at Schmuck Munich.

Jury members deliberate
Jury members Sophie Hanagarth, Ineke Heerkens, Liesbeth den Besten (foundation chair), Davud Huycke, and Herman Hermsen deliberate at Liesbeth den Besten’s home in October 2015, photo: Françoise van den Bosch Foundation. They decided on Marc Monzó as the winner of the Françoise van den Bosch Award 2016

The spirit of Françoise, ahead of the conventions of her time, is present in each recipient. The first laureate was Paul Derrez.

With the zeitgeist, the notion of what is innovative and bold changes. Just read the jury reports on the foundation’s website over the years: a plea for artists who put the jewel center stage, then a search for artists who think conceptually, later a focus on the connection to the body (not overly important for Françoise), or political dilemmas like winners from the Netherlands versus international winners.

Award ceremony for Lauren Kalman
Award ceremony for Lauren Kalman (standing at right), with the foundation’s chair Martijn van Ooststroom and Eleonora Radke, who designed the “trophy,” November 14, 2021, Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam, photo: Ernst van Deursen/Françoise van den Bosch Foundation. (Pictured on the screen: Schmatzen, 2021, necklace, acrylic glass, acrylic, brass, cord)

The winner had always received a sum of €5,000. This year, two anonymous couples doubled it, to amplify the award’s impact. Every winner receives a “trophy,” a piece of jewelry made by a student. The collection acquires work by the recipient. To mark the occasion, some winners publish a book, others hold an exhibition in the Netherlands. Marc Monzó was featured in Design Museum Den Bosch and Sophie Hanagarth in CODA Museum Apeldoorn. David Bielander presented his work in a celebration with spectacular scenography in Museum Arnhem. Ted Noten organized a fashion show with his exhibition in the then Stedelijk Museum ‘s-Hertogenbosch. Twelve models wore his jewelry on the “Tedwalk.” Lin Cheung and Lauren Kalman were honored with a symposium, hosted by the Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam.

Top view of David Bielander’s exhibition Demiurg
Top view of David Bielander’s exhibition Demiurg, in the Museum voor Moderne Kunst Arnhem (Netherlands), on the day of the award ceremony, September 20, 2013, photo: Françoise van den Bosch Foundation

Françoise’s serious play

What is the recipe for the foundation’s continued existence? The quick and vulgar answer would be: “sufficient means.” But let’s start at the beginning.

The foundation is named after a progressive Dutch goldsmith. Or artist, as she would prefer to be called. Françoise was active at the end of the 60s and 70s. She came from a noble family. Her inclination for sports was understood, but not her artistic ambitions. The expectations for a girl of her standing, combined with concerned but covert meddling over her epilepsy, burdened her. But she persisted.

After art school, having left gold and silver behind, she worked with aluminum rod and other industrial materials. She cut and plied slices of standard-dimension tube, lovingly polishing the resulting cushion shapes to a soft feel. She called the endless experiments with nonprecious metals “playing.” The studio was full of aluminum samples with black scribbles. These were the charred marks of testing the temperature of the aluminum, which does not change to cherry red like silver. They look like notes to remind the serious artist to do better here or rework something there.

Material studies from Françoise’s studio
Material studies from Françoise’s studio, various materials, Françoise van den Bosch estate, photo: Françoise van den Bosch Foundation

Many of Françoise’s pieces consisted of two parts that slid in and out of each other. Her design for an interlocking black and white aluminum bracelet serves as the logo of the foundation. A sculptor acquaintance of hers has suggested that Françoise missed having intense and long relationships in her life. We can’t ask her. But at the time several jewelry artists designed two-part jewelry. Think of Hans Appenzeller or Paul Derrez, whose two-component Wisselring from 1975 became a classic.

Françoise van den Bosch, two-part necklace
Françoise van den Bosch, two-part necklace, 1970, stainless steel, Françoise van den Bosch estate, now in the foundation’s collection held by the Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam, photo: Françoise van den Bosch Foundation

Innovating the notion of jewelry

In 1969, at only 25, Françoise participated in an international exhibition with the slightly older Gijs Bakker and Emmy van Leersum. Called Objects to Wear, it presented their mission for jewelry: a focus on the design and not on gold and gems. It was the era of working in series or multiples. Françoise wanted to make her jewelry less expensive and widely available. Later she joined a group of avant-garde artists in Amsterdam, the B.O.E.-group. This “Union of Rebellious Goldsmiths” sought appreciation for their work for its artistic value. They showed their work in galleries instead of selling it from the conventional jeweler’s shop. And they demanded a better income.

The members of the B.O.E.-group
The members of the B.O.E.-group: (left to right) Onno Boekhoudt, Françoise van den Bosch, Karel Niehorster, Marion Herbst, and Berend Peter, 1973, photo: unknown, possibly Hans Hoogland/Wikimedia Commmons

Chance encounter

One evening in 1969, the young museum curator Jerven Ober and his wife, Annelies van der Schatte Olivier, were strolling along Amsterdam’s canals when a new jewelry gallery drew their attention. Van der Schatte Olivier was mesmerized by a stainless-steel two-part bracelet. Françoise made her first sale, and the couple learned of the existence of this type of jewelry. During his career, Ober tried to present crafts as equal to art. He became an advocate for jewelry, most notably in what is now CODA Museum Apeldoorn.

The couple befriended Françoise. Van der Schatte Olivier remembers her as serious about her work and serious about her friendships. One day, she and the children stayed with Françoise, who was over the moon over a piece of equipment she had managed to buy off a metalworker in the neighborhood. It was just perfect for bending industrial tube.

Annelies van der Schatte Olivier
Annelies van der Schatte Olivier in 2021, wearing Françoise van den Bosch’s original black and white two-part aluminum bracelet dated 1970, photo: Saskia van Es

A plan to honor Françoise’s memory

After Françoise’s sudden death in 1977, her family arranged a private funeral. Her friends from the art world felt they had not had a proper way of saying goodbye. Immediately an idea to honor Françoise’s memory formed. Eventually a delegation visited the Van den Bosch family. They presented the idea: a foundation in Françoise’s name to promote and stimulate contemporary jewelry. The Van den Bosches supported the plan with an endowment. Stedelijk Museum curator Liesbeth Crommelin, Jerven Ober, and Françoise’s brother-in-law Piet-Hein Verspyck Mijnssen signed the founding paperwork. Verspyck Mijnssen, who would become the longtime foundation treasurer, invested the initial sum wisely. This, plus yearly membership donations by faithful friends, has kept the foundation’s activities possible for more than four decades. Over time, the small group of the foundation’s “friends” has gradually been replaced by people from all over the world who never knew Françoise personally.

Réka Fekete, Sydney Parks
Réka Fekete, Sydney Parks, necklace, 2018, blackened silver, aluminum, acquisition/donation, photo: Françoise van den Bosch Foundation/courtesy of the artist

Commitment

How can an institution like this survive? Sufficient means are one component. But equally important: people, people who volunteer as loyal board members and willing jurors.

The 42-year-old foundation is now on only its third treasurer and its fourth chairperson. After Jerven Ober, Paul Derrez, and Liesbeth den Besten, the current chair is Martijn van Ooststroom. In the early days the board members were direct friends of Françoise. They would all squeeze in a car to have a board meeting—read: leisurely dinner—at Marion Herbst’s dike house, for instance.

In those days people seemed to have more time, and cars were smaller. But today still, knowledgeable people from the field expend their energy. All serve unpaid, and meetings are still held in board members’ homes to keep overhead costs low. Today board members are Dutch speakers but not always Dutch. They are based in or near the Netherlands for practical reasons. The latest additions are Jeannette Jansen, Morgane de Klerk, and treasurer Jeroen Redel.

Artist-in-residence Trinn Kukk showing her work after her lecture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy
Artist-in-residence Trinn Kukk (dressed in black) showing her work after her lecture at Gerrit Rietveld Academy Amsterdam, with Liesbeth den Besten, Martijn van Ooststroom, Jeroen Redel, and others looking on, May 16, 2022, photo: Ineke Heerkens/Françoise van den Bosch Foundation

Why all this dedication? The international renown that the foundation has gained is a factor. And let’s not rule out the James Dean effect: a highly gifted woman with a desire for an artistic life that did not fit her family’s background, combined with her untimely death, has its appeal. For me, it’s Françoise’s attitude, technically uncompromising, that led to designs ahead of her time.

Lauren Kalman, Device for Filling a Void (4)
Lauren Kalman, Device for Filling a Void (4), 2015, object, gold-plated electroformed copper, brass, earthenware, photo: Françoise van den Bosch Foundation/courtesy of the artist. Kalman was the foundation’s acquisition award recipient 2020

The wish of the founders

In 1980 the Françoise van den Bosch Foundation got a running start with a substantial sum. The contributions of a group of loyal supporters, whether financial or in time and energy, have given it a long-term presence.

The desire of Françoise’s friends to honor their talented colleague and to “stimulate and promote” contemporary jewelry, has succeeded. Françoise van den Bosch’s name continues to be mentioned as a trailblazing figurehead for jewelry.

Onno Boekhoudt, bracelet Manfred Bischoff, Mann mit Zwei Fragen

—-

Additional reading

Ober, J. (ed) (1990). Françoise van den Bosch (1944–1977). Naarden: Françoise van den Bosch Foundation

Acknowledgments

This article was based on an unpublished interview by Maja Houtman with Françoise’s contemporary Michiel Dhont (on March 9, 2016) and my conversations with Otto Count van den Bosch, Mrs. Thea Verspyck Mijnssen-van den Bosch, and Ms. Diana van den Bosch, brother, sister, and niece respectively of Françoise van den Bosch (September 21, 2020); Paul Derrez and Willem Hoogstede (April 9, 2021); Annelies van der Schatte Olivier (April 15, 2021, and March 4, 2022), accompanied by the rattling aluminum sound of an original black and white Françoise van den Bosch bracelet—van der Schatte Olivier’s favorite—around  her wrist); a phone call with Lous Martin, cofounder of Galerie Sieraad, the aforementioned Amsterdam gallery (August 22, 2022); several conversations with Liesbeth den Besten, longtime chair of the foundation, with whom I had the pleasure to overlap on the board for a couple of years; and the valuable points of view of the current chair, Martijn van Ooststroom, about what makes the foundation unique.

[1] https://francoisevandenbosch.nl/.

[2] Pronunciation help for non-Dutch speakers: Bosch rhymes with “boss,” and not with “ohmygosh.”

[3] The collection can be found online and has been described here.

[4] The deadline to apply for the 2023 artist-in-residence program is this week: September 15, 2022. Learn more here.

[5] See all the recipients here.

 

The post The Françoise van den Bosch Foundation appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

Bill Smith

$
0
0
Model twirling with a Pearl Robe by Richelieu, Vogue, New York Vol. 155, Issue 5 (Mar. 1, 1970), p. 148, photo: Bert Stern, copyright The Condé Nast Publications

For the revolutionary fashionistas of the 60s and 70s, Bill Smith was there to dress them in jewelry. He was a designer regarded as a sensation, awarded for jewelry styles that captured the freedom and exuberance of the era. The covers of fashion magazines showed his long strings of pearls and large spring collars around the necks of models both famous and unknown. Yet for a designer who gained great love and adoration from the fashion world, his story suddenly disappeared, and his legacy became a forgotten page of the great textbook of history. How did he rise to such a point of acclaim, and how did he disappear so quickly?

Coil Necklace by Bill Smith of Richelieu, Vogue, New York Vol. 154, Issue 4 (Sep. 1, 1969), p. 434, photo: Richard Avedon, copyright The Condé Nast Publications

William Franklin Smith was born in 1933[i] to the family of Robert Smith and Elizabeth Foree in Madison, IN, US.[ii] His father worked as a carpenter, and served as a soldier in WWII, while his mother was a homemaker. Smith also had a sister, Gladys, with whom he had a very close relationship throughout his life. During his childhood, he was encouraged by his family to pursue the arts. As an adult he had fond memories of learning from his public school art teacher Vivian Gray. In addition to visual art, he also began pursuing a major interest in dance, which would be his first major focus. His interests in the arts continued after high school, and he attended Indiana University to study dance, performing for the Jordan River Revue and a production of Kiss Me Kate, among other musicals. While he was honing his footwork, he also engaged in other hands-on activities, and he began studying metalsmithing at the school under the tutelage of the famed American silversmith Alma Eikerman. After graduating with a degree in metalsmithing, Smith moved to New York in 1954, where he attempted to formally pursue a career in dance. He was invited by famed dancers Martha Graham, Jose Limón, and Doris Humphreys to study under them, and he quickly seized the opportunity, eventually joining as a member of the Alwin Nikolais Dance Company.[iii] While continuing to dance, he held other jobs, including work as a messenger in the Garment District and as a librarian at Columbia, until he was called on to use his metalsmithing skills for another side job.[iv] For this gig, Smith began working in a Greenwich Village jewelry shop. He ended up taking over after the owner had an accident, and he made jewelry while he tried to find success in dance. As his work in jewelry gradually took center stage over his efforts in dance, he eventually decided to focus on jewelry full time in 1958.

His first stint with mainstream achievement started in his first company, Smith St. Jacques, which was located at 164 East 33rd St. He founded the company around 1960 with his business partner and upcoming actor Raymond St. Jacques, who would eventually become famous for playing the role of Simon Blake on the 60s Western show Rawhide. Although working as a partnership, Smith would often tease in interviews that he did most of the work in the company.[v] Looking to incorporate the bold and modern styles of the early 60s in their work, Smith St. Jacques created bangles, necklaces, earrings, and other items from brass, leather, and tassels that emphasized size and experimentation in costume jewelry. Fame and success came quickly, as celebrities such as Lena Horne and Loretta Young bought pieces, while department stores such as Lord & Taylor and Henri Bendel featured Smith St. Jacques on their counters. Their extravagant works also garnered editorial coverage, as their works accessorized models in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, featuring famed singers and models like Cher and Twiggy.

In addition to his early feats in jewelry in the public sphere, Smith also gained the interest of the museological world, as his work joined the collection of the Museum of Contemporary Crafts, in New York (now called Museum of Arts and Design), and was shown in exhibitions. [vi] Yet the success found in Smith St. Jacques was only the beginning of the broader accomplishments Smith would find in creating costume jewelry in the late 60s.

Bill Smith, “Pearl Coat” Body Jewelry, 1969, faux pearls, brass metal chain, ivory rayon cord tassels, Philadelphia Museum of Art

In 1968, Smith closed his company to begin creating jewelry for Richelieu, which at the time was one of the biggest costume jewelry companies in the United States. He originally worked for the company as a freelance consultant, but caught the attention of its president, Jerry Wessenger. The company was originally known for its classic strings of fake pearls, but Wessenger hired him to “put fresh breath” into the business, without realizing the artistic potential and flair Smith would bring to their boardroom.[vii] On the day when Smith walked into the Richelieu’s 5th Avenue location, he shocked company leaders by introducing new forms of their jewelry, redesigned with a wild extravagance. Upon encountering a pantsuit made of strings of Turkish coins, a matching pair of bralette and trousers made only of pearls, and many other unorthodox designs, the officials were filled with consternation and fear.[viii] They could not have predicted the radical emergence of body jewelry in the costume world. These designs would signify one of the most iconic moments of Smith’s career.

Kushner, Trucia D., “The Accessories: Body Objects,” Women’s Wear Daily, New York Vol. 119, Issue 51 (Sep 12, 1969), p. 24

“You can use anything you want to,” Smith said in an interview for The Kokomo Tribune, “but don’t make it look like what it is—give it another dimension.”[ix] Smith had a deep willingness to take risks and experiment with jewelry, designing fake pearls into full fashion garments with hints of erotic flair, creating bold collars and belts made of brass baubles, and incorporating unorthodox materials, such as plastic and leather, to give the illusion of high end jewelry at an affordable cost.

Bill Smith, Body Ornament, 2020, modeled by Merème, photo: Aida Sulova, image courtesy of Aida Sulova and The Jewelry Library

In addition to predicting the jewelry of the future, he also used past influences to rethink questions of body decoration in the Western world. He would often draw upon influences from African, Persian, and Seminole styles to explore costume jewelry away from the Western lens, inviting global heritage into an often excluded space to be appreciated.[x] He also gained many of his ideas by exploring design history in museums, noting in one article how he often went to the Cooper Hewitt museum in New York for inspiration.[xi] In addition to looking toward non-Western traditions, Smith continued to design different styles of Richelieu’s famous signature pieces of fake pearls, expanding the definition of how pearls are supposed to be worn on the body. He transformed them into full body pieces, designing them as scarves, coats, skirts, vests, and even head pieces. “Pearls won’t ever go out [of style],” Smith said in The Kokomo Tribune, “They’re an old tradition like apple pie.”[xii]

Beaded scarf by Bill Smith for Richelieu, Vogue, New York Vol. 155, Issue 7 (Apr. 1, 1970), p. 148, photo: Irving Penn, copyright The Condé Nast Publications Inc.

In his decision to drape his customers in long chains of pearls, Smith considered freedom of self-expression to be an important part of wearing his jewelry. “I really don’t care how people wear it,” Smith said in an interview with Women’s Wear Daily. “Let every woman do what she wants to do. I am a creator, not a dictator.”[xiii] Smith gave his wearers the freedom to express their own identities and personalities, encouraging the customer to define their jewelry, rather than have the jewelry define them. This freedom in jewelry style coincided with the movements of liberation that characterized the late 60s and early 70s. Body jewelry eschewed the rigid constraints of social expectation, and prepared for the era of fun, dance, and decadence that came to portray the upcoming decade.

Pearl Chain by Richelieu, Harper’s Bazaar, New York Vol. 102, Issue 3089 (Apr. 1969), p. 159

The body jewelry in Richelieu’s collection became a massive hit for the company, and it brought Smith renown and an even wider audience. After working just two months for the company, he was promoted to vice president and became its head designer. For the next few years, he handled most of the major design campaigns of the company. His jewelry was featured in Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Women’s Wear Daily, and many other fashion magazines, and Smith even made a TV appearance on the Today show, displaying his body jewelry with Barbara Walters. His work also continued to spark museum interest, and half a dozen of his pieces entered the collection of the Philadelphia Museum of Art in 1969.[xiv] His designs for Richelieu received awards; in 1969 he won the Swarovski Award for Designer of the Year. Then in 1970, he won the coveted COTY award in fashion, becoming its first black recipient.[xv] Conflicting reports also note that he may have received his first COTY in 1965, however, more research is needed to confirm this information.

Richelieu ad featuring a piece designed by Bill Smith for Coco. It ran in Vogue, New York Vol. 155, Issue 9 (May 1, 1970), pp. 36–37, photo: Richelieu Corp, copyright The Condé Nast Publications

While becoming a darling of the fashion world, during the height of his fame his experimental costume designs also attracted the attention of Broadway, as he became the jewelry designer for the 1969 production Coco.[xvi] A show which visualized the life and influence of French designer Coco Chanel, the production starred the legendary Katherine Hepburn in the title role, and featured set and costume designs by Cecil Beaton, with music by André Previn. To accessorize the real Chanel designs, Smith designed gold chains with ruby red German crosses and added pearl designs, which captured the spirit of the Roaring 20s. The show was nominated for multiple Tony awards, winning one for Best Actor in a Musical. Despite its beginnings as a Broadway sensation, the show failed to keep the same critical acclaim after Hepburn left the role eight months later, and it closed on Broadway, heading on a national tour in 1971.

Golden belt by Bill Smith for Richelieu, Vogue, New York Vol. 155, Issue 9 (May 1, 1970), p. 172, photo: Irving Penn, copyright The Condé Nast Publications Inc.

Smith’s initial employment at Richelieu, and later partnership there did not last for long. Early in his career he received no credit in the labeling of his designs, but later his designs were exclusively marked as “Bill Smith for Richelieu,” yet this change in credit was not enough of an incentive for him to stay. He left in 1972 to set up his own company, Bill Smith Design Studios, Inc, with the help of Kenton Corp, after being introduced to them by Naomi Sims, one of the first African American supermodels.[xvii] The formation of this new company gave Smith more freedom to work with other designers and facilitated a chance for him to break out of costume jewelry. He began collaborating with Cartier (see an example of a design here), fur company Ben Kahn, and leather goods company Mark Cross, producing products of precious metals and leather.[xviii] During this time he participated in a photo shoot with Sims, for Look magazine, adorning her in a custom-made Cartier collaboration: a gold hat and cuffs printed with African designs.[xix] Sims friendship to Smith helped him to move toward a more independent career, and hopefully towards greater achievements.

Golden collar by Bill Smith for Richelieu, Vogue, New York Vol. 155, Issue 9 (May 1, 1970), p. 183, photo: Irving Penn, copyright The Condé Nast Publications Inc.

Unfortunately, this move toward his own autonomy seemed to also signal the end of his moment in the limelight of the fashion world, as fewer and fewer articles exist to document his later work in the 70s and 80s. During this time, he continued to produce and collaborate with other companies, providing designs for Laguna, Omega Inc., and Hattie Carnegie manufacturing, yet without the same levels of prominence he had had with his earlier work. Bill Smith Design Studios, Inc., was discontinued in 1981, although he had plans to restart the company in the future. He seemed to reflect on the unforgiving nature of the fashion industry in an interview at the time, stating, “I’m cynical because of the waste of talent I see. Talent sustains you once you’ve made it, but to become successful you have to be manipulative.”[xx]  This cause for cynicism still seems just as apparent today, especially in regard to important black members of the fashion world such as André Leon Talley, an acquaintance of Bill Smith, who, despite his clear influence on fashion criticism, ended up alone and nearly evicted from his home by the time of his death in 2022.This treatment is most apparent in fashion’s tendency to forget the important people who help move it forward, especially forgetting the African American community, which has often been discredited for its past achievements and relegated to a footnote in the historical texts of time. Smith became increasingly forgotten as the push for black representation in society lost its importance to other issues in America.

Pearl beads by Richelieu, Vogue, New York Vol. 153, Issue 5 (March 1, 1969), p. 144, photo: Bert Stern, copyright The Condé Nast Publications Inc.

The saddest aspect of the nature of time and fame is most visible in Smith’s death, in 1989, due to complications of AIDS-related pneumonia. According to his grandniece, at the time of his death, Smith had been disowned by his father because the man couldn’t tolerate Smith being gay, and he only kept in contact with his sister, who always supported him no matter what. [xxi] As he was dying, his sister was the only family member who visited him, and she cared for him until his final days. Unfortunately, possibly due to stigma around AIDS at the time, no records can be found, including obituaries or contemporary articles from the late 80s. Yet even current research written about Smith fails to note when or how he died. It seems as if Smith’s contributions to jewelry and fashion became so unimportant that researchers haven’t taken the steps to determine his recent whereabouts, leaving Smith in a liminal state of life and death, his existence obliterated through lack of care.

Goldie Hawn wearing a choker by Richelieu on the cover of Vogue, New York Vol. 157, Issue 6 (Mar. 15, 1971), photo: Richard Avedon, copyright The Condé Nast Publications Inc.

Bill Smith’s story is an essential example of the important contributions that African American designers brought to the world of jewelry, and the necessity of preserving these meaningful stories for the future. Smith combined brass, leather, fake pearls with experimentation and freedom of expression to create body jewelry that captured the world of fashion in the 60s and 70s and created a sensation. Dressing celebrities and models in bold jewelry, Smith’s accomplishments, which ranged from awards and accolades from Vogue to accession in the Philadelphia Museum of Art, predicted a future of recognition for Black talent. Yet his story is also one of caution, warning us of the fleeting power of historical relevance, and the fact that culture can nearly eradicate the crucial contributions of the past that have led to the rights and privileges we enjoy in the present.  It is now our responsibility to keep these stories alive, so these designers will not be forgotten.

Richelieu ad featuring a piece designed by Bill Smith. It ran in Vogue, New York Vol. 155, Issue 7 (Apr. 1, 1970), pp. 24–25, photo: Richelieu Corp, copyright The Condé Nast Publications

 

[i] Conflicting reports also state that he was born in 1936.

[ii] Jane Allison, “Dancer Finds Career. In Fingers, Not Feet,” Indianapolis Star (Indianapolis, IN), Nov. 15, 1959, 17.

[iii] Joan Gilmore, “Bill Smith To Lecture,” Daily Oklahoman (Oklahoma City, OK), Feb. 27, 1972, 76.

[iv] Allison.

[v] Lana Ellis, “Bill Smith Makes a Name in Jewelry,” The Courier-Journal (Louisville, KY), Nov. 23, 1969, 131.

[vi] Angela Taylor, “Costume Jewelry Goes Big, Flashy, and Phony,” New York Times (New York, NY), Aug. 16 1965, 20.

[vii] Ellis, 131.

[viii] Marian Christy, “Just Plain Bill Smith Creates Dazzling Jewelry,” Boston Globe (Boston, MA), Sep. 12, 1969, 34.

[ix] Joy Stilley, “Designer Says Jewelry Conveys ‘Individuality,’” Kokomo Tribune (Kokomo, IN), Mar. 10, 1969, 8.

[x] “The Jewelry: Smith’s Standouts,” Women’s Wear Daily (New York, NY), June 12, 1970, 24.

[xi] “Jewelry Genius Becomes a Veep,” Ebony (Chicago, IL), Oct. 1968, 92-97.

[xii] Stilley.

[xiii] Trucia Kushner, “The Accessories: Body Objects,” Women’s Wear Daily (New York, NY), Sep. 12, 1969, 24.

[xiv] Eugenia Sheppard, “Making Jewelry like Eating Steak,” Hartford Courant (Hartford, CT), July 17, 1969, 26.

[xv] “Bill Smith Recipient of Coty Fashion Critics’ award,” Baltimore Afro-American (Baltimore, MD), Oct. 3, 1970, 13.

[xvi] Opal Crockett, “Hoosier Bejewels Broadway’s ‘Coco,’” Indianapolis Star (Indianapolis, IN), Feb. 9, 1970, 6.

[xvii] Gemexi Team, “Bill Smith—First Black Jewelry Designer to Win Prestigious Awards,” Gemexi, last modified Sep. 16, 2015, web.

[xviii] “Bill Smith—The Maverick,” Black Enterprise (New York, NY), July, 1981, 36.

[xix] “Fashion Now: Black Pow!,” Look (Des Moines, IA), produced by Jo Ahern Segal, April, 1972, 52–53.

[xx] “Bill Smith—The Maverick.”

[xxi] Briton Sargent (Bill Smith’s grandniece) in discussion with the author, July 14, 2022.

The post Bill Smith appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

A Universe in a Book

$
0
0

Manfred Bischoff: Ding Dong, Rike Bartels, ed., with contributions by Cornelie Holzach, Liesbeth den Besten, Matthew Drutt, Helen W. Drutt English, and Karl Bollmann, book design by Gabi Veit (Stuttgart: Arnoldsche, 2021).

Even for those of us who love and are surrounded by books, every once in a while there will be one that comes to exist well beyond its papery goodness and the knowledge it shares: one that shows us the true agency of a book. These are books that insinuate themselves into our very fabric. Different books for everybody, but when we encounter one, we know it is there to stay in our personal imaginary, at once managing to open up a world for the first time, yet making us recognize this world as one we have somehow known and belonged to all along.

When these books find us, we are nearly overwhelmed, in this increasingly digital age, by the intangible power of their physical presence. The experiences of such encounters are rare, and all the more memorable. In the jewelry world specifically, I still vividly remember being shown Hermann Jünger’s Jewellery – Found Objects by none other than Bob Ebendorf, on that very first and life-changing encounter with him at West Dean College. I spent years tracking a second-hand copy down, finally celebrating the serendipity of obtaining one through another great teacher and mentor, Elizabeth Turrell. Or discovering, on the Ruthin Craft Centre’s stand at Collect, Paul Preston’s little unassuming autobiographical and eponymous spiral-bound treasure while tumbling down the Red Mole’s (Preston’s chosen pseudonym) tunnel into a golden miniature world that seemed so removed from the hustle and bustle of the art fair. Or flicking through published material on the quiet front windowsill at Maurer-Zilioli in Munich and discovering Bruno Martinazzi’s Memory Maps catalog (a rare copy of which Dr. Ellen herself, its editor, allowed me to buy!) and losing myself over and over in the immensity of his neatly scribbled pencil reflections.

Manfred Bischoff, John Cage, 1996, earrings, gold, coral, photo copyright Andrea Fucelli

Manfred Bischoff: Ding Dong is a tender, elegant, and moving tribute to an individual many of us have not had the opportunity to have in our lives, through the eyes of some of those who had the fortune to . What would normally read, in a scholarly publication, as an exclusive cast of jewelry writers (Cornelie Holzach, Liesbeth den Besten, Matthew Drutt, Helen Drutt English, Karl Bollmann), is here a list of close friends and admirers. There is musing in the writings, as there is reminiscence, searching, and questioning. Their contributions transcend the catalog essay to become the heartfelt testimonials and intimate, emotional insights of five humans not providing fast answers to increasingly hungry readers but still slowly seeking, even after so many years, to make sense of a man, his work, his universe. And of their personal, as well as that of the wider art world, loss.

Manfred Bischoff, Untitled 1985, in the studio, photo copyright Federico Cavicchioli

Matthew Drutt and Liesbeth den Besten’s pieces, leaning more on the academic side, cannot but betray a sense of mystery about the man and the artist, his life and his creative process. Drutt calls this unclinchable complexity “Bischoffism”[i]; Den Besten describes it as “a door slightly opened” through which “you can grasp the atmosphere inside, be enchanted, feel the energy, but you can’t fully enter.”[ii]

Manfred Bischoff, Es Ist Eine Eigenschaft des Zentrums die Eifersucht der Peripherie zu Erwecken
Manfred Bischoff, Es Ist Eine Eigenschaft des Zentrums die Eifersucht der Peripherie zu Erwecken, 1988, brooch, silver, gold, coral, pearls, photo: Otto Künzli

All of the writings invariably also draw on first encounters with Bischoff, and the years of friendships and discussions that ensued. Karl Bollman’s “Thinking Of”—nearly each paragraph starting with the invocation “Manfred”, as if attempting to still talk directly or summon the presence of the man—is penned as much as an ode as a memoir. Helen Drutt’s collected recollections from Bischoff’s memorial strive to retrace, the way perhaps never destined to be clear, the unfathomable myriad of connections and shared meandering of mind, from common friendships to intellectual interests, that pulled and kept them together. “Deep in Manfred’s mind was a place where the world stopped and the imagination began and we entered his inner self.”[iii]

Manfred Bischoff, Nobody Else
Manfred Bischoff, Nobody Else, 2000, ring on drawing, gold, photo: Eva Jünger

As an object, the book is an exquisite example of Arnoldsche’s ethos of creating publications that are bound not to an editorial house style but only to the specific demands of the content. As a celebratory monograph, the book has a wonderful feel as it so effectively combines the grandiosity of what is a very large coffee table format with the delicate airiness of its graphic design.

Manfred Bischoff, Kun, 2005, brooch on drawing, gold, photo copyright Bruno Bruchi | Antonella Villanova

Spread after spread, the work is splendidly reproduced in actual size, which, from a research point of view, is always a most welcome practice, and particularly important for appreciating its visual symbolism and storytelling. But this is also crucial in order to try and unravel the uncanny complexity of that laboriously simple drawn and written line—a distinction sometimes so blurred as to be elusive, as in Kun[iv]—that forms so intrinsic and inextricable an element in Bischoff’s work. The focus of den Besten’s essay, this line remains clear and yet ungraspable in all of our imaginaries. And “Can we ever forget his script?” asks Helen Drutt: “his cursive writing announcing his presence on earth … a drawing … a linear road one had to follow to find Manfred’s “pot of gold.”[v]

Beneath the fun dust jacket, featuring a towering Afrodite, one of Bischoff’s typically whimsical but inscrutable characters, lies a muted pink binding that is so intelligently layered with associations with the ethereal, the gentle, and the recherché. But this pink, which returns in two different tones throughout the book as an unexpected and deceptively inconspicuous page background, of course also matches the tones of the coral so often part of Bischoff’s opus—the bricks of Un soir fait de rose mystique and the faces of the John Cage earrings being a perfect example[vi]—subtly bridging the materiality of the book with that of the work.

And then there are the photographs of the many of those Tuscan buildings and interiors—house indistinguishable from studio space—that were such an important environment to Bischoff. Most of these photographs were obtained through friends and colleagues, many after his passing: another wonderful touch reminding us of the emotional, as well as of the scholarly, role of the book. Cornelie Holzach shows a profound awareness of the relationship between place, man, and work, so much that half of her Foreword is taken up by the journey she undertook to Tuscany, a precursor to another, no less emotional nor less winding journey, into Bischoff and his world. The pink background here becomes an unassuming but warm brown (how had I not noticed the endpapers?), an old colour, matching the “cracks [of] the old monastery walls,” whispering of “fragile beauty,” faithful and undemanding like Bischoff’s “very old, very decrepit-looking dog.”[vii]

The man himself is mostly not in, but not absent from, these pictures. The empty steps, chairs, windows exert such evocative power, which I feel even more as an Italian who left similar places nearly 30 years ago. But if these walls and the objects they frame can only really have special meaning for those who have inhabited or shared them with him at one point or another, in the book they invite us to follow Holzach on our own Manfred Bischoff journey.

Manfred Bischoff, Home, n.d., drawing with photo by Jan Dibbets | studio view surrounded by work of his artist friends Werner Büttner, Mariella Simoni, Martin Guttmann and Jan Dibbets

The design of each individual book is of prime importance for Arnoldsche, and editor Rike Bartels and designer Gabi Veit show such a deep understanding of and sensitivity to how the work demands to be seen. The photos are contemplative windows into his opus, often framed by a vast amount of blank space, regularly shunned by so many publications as well as exhibition spaces because of costs, but here expertly curated into the page not simply as negative space but as a catalyst to look and think. The sheer quantity and depth of work makes this a truly slow book—every turn of a page challenging the reader’s imagination to (re)create the story behind each piece.

Manfred Bischoff, Solomann, 1990, brooch, silver, gold, coral, photo: Otto Künzli

Both with their own deep personal connection to Bischoff, Bartels and Veit’s choice to match the cover piece, Afrodite unplugged, with the title of another, Ding Dong, is yet another testimony that with Bischoff nothing is ever quite what it appears to be. But Ding Dong represented so much more than a title, Bartels says: “the beauty of his script … the funniness of the title itself … the bells from the church … [its meaning of] ‘Voilà’, surprise … coming out of nothing.” Most of all, for Bartels it means that one day “somewhere from the horizon a tender voice says … ding … dong … it’s me … here. I am back!”[viii]

Manfred Bischoff, Untitled, 1985, brooch, silver, shell, photo copyright Eva Jünger

A universe is a home and a home is a universe, both so familiar and yet so complex. This book is a door to the home of Manfred Bischoff, a portal to his universe. We open it carefully, knocking to make sure we are not intruding, and once in we wait for the vortex that will suck us in. Such experiences are rare. When these books find us, they are ones we could never part with. These, too, are the rare books we elect as gifts for truly treasured friends hoping that they, too, can share in the journey.

Manfred Bischoff, Un Soir Fait de Rose Mystique, 1992, brooch, gold, coral, photo copyright Otto Künzli

[i] Pp. 13–15.

[ii] P. 45.

[iii] P. 71.

[iv] P. 127.

[v] P. 71.

[vi] Pp. 106–107.

[vii] P. 5.

[viii] Email exchange between the author and Rike Bartels, August 8–9, 2022.

 

The post A Universe in a Book appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

On Offer

$
0
0

September 2022, Part 2

There are so many reasons to purchase art jewelry…

  • You got that hard-earned promotion—celebrate!
  • You’re experiencing a once-in-a-lifetime occasion—honor it.
  • You wrapped up that major accomplishment—pay it tribute.
  • You want to mark the beginning of a new relationship or the end of one—commemorate it.
  • Perhaps it’s an investment—do it!
  • It’s the perfect piece to round out an aspect of your collection—pounce!
  • Or maybe it’s a treat for yourself—just because.

Art Jewelry Forum’s international gallery supporters celebrate and exhibit art jewelry. Our monthly On Offer series allows this extensive network of international galleries to showcase extraordinary pieces personally selected to tempt and inspire you. Take a look. You’re bound to find a fantastic piece you simply have to add to your collection! (Please contact the gallery directly for inquiries.)

Andy Lowrie, Paper Diamond
Andy Lowrie, Paper Diamond, 2021, brooch, sterling silver, steel, enamel paint, powder coat, magnets, 102 x 152 mm, photo courtesy of Baltimore Jewelry Center

Gallery: Baltimore Jewelry Center
Contact: Shane Prada
Artist: Andrew Lowrie
Retail price: US$195

Andy Lowrie began his art- and jewelry-making practice in Australia at the Queensland College of Art, Jewellery and Small Objects Studio, where he earned his BFA in 2011. He moved to the United States in 2016 and earned an MFA in Craft/Material Studies from Virginia Commonwealth University in 2020. Lowrie joined the Baltimore Jewelry Center team in the fall of 2020 as the inaugural teaching fellow. Paper Diamond is included in Fulfillment, an exhibition that explores the experience of teaching a craft and sharing a passion juxtaposed in stark contrast to the extreme physical output demanded of American manufacturing and logistics.

Caio Mahin, Headless Mule
Caio Mahin, Headless Mule, 2021, brooch, fabric, thread, foam, sterling silver, 180 x 100 x 30 mm, photo: Benedikt Adler

Gallery: Galeria Tereza Seabra
Contact: Tereza Seabra
Artist: Caio Mahin
Retail price: €380, plus shipping

Currently studying at Campus Idar-Oberstein, Caio Mahin makes work that is all about fairy tales, as cultural themes like racism and sexism are often based on them. His goal is to open a politicized look at these stories by showing how they affect adult behavior, but also to overcome and twist narratives that often exclude non-normative bodies or turn them into obscure ones. In doing so, German folk tales have proven to be a great contribution to his canon, as have old toys, the mechanisms of which create clear narratives.

Marion Delarue, Loving to the Moon (and Back)
Marion Delarue, Loving to the Moon (and Back), 2022, brooch, shell, silver, 30 x 40 x 13 mm, photo: artist

Gallery: Galerie Noel Guyomarc’h
Contact: Noel Guyomarc’h
Artist: Marion Delarue
Retail price: CAN$395

Inspired by Guimbardes brooches—sentimental French heart-shaped jewels, a little kitsch, often worn by men—Marion Delarue sculpts and polishes a shell carefully chosen for its color, its resistance, and the material it represents. The shape of the heart, as we know it today, was born in France in the 14th century and inspired by the ”subtle evocation of the chest and buttocks of the human body,” says Marilyn Yalom, from the Clayman Institute for Gender Research, at Stanford University.

Karin Roy Andersson, Earrings
Karin Roy Andersson, Earrings, 2022, naturally tanned reindeer leather, silver, thread, 50 x 20 mm, photo: Sofia Björkman

Gallery: Platina Stockholm
Contact: Sofia Björkman
Artist: Karin Roy Andersson
Retail price: US$250

A constant search for new materials to recycle, and the interplay between her and the qualities of the materials—these challenge and motivate Karin Roy Andersson. The series with reindeer leather began when she collaborated with a Sami woman from Sapmi, in the north. The two artists have shared materials, experiences, and sources of inspiration, knowledge, and techniques.

Jacqueline Ryan, Clover Circlet earrings
Jacqueline Ryan, Clover Circlet earrings, 18-karat gold, vitreous enamel, 17 x 17 x 4 mm, photo courtesy of Thereza Pedrosa Gallery

Gallery: Thereza Pedrosa Gallery
Contact: Thereza Pedrosa
Artist: Jacqueline Ryan
Retail price: €1,700

Jacqueline Ryan’s works are micro natural cosmos captured in the eternity of gold and enamel. Each creation, inspired by natural elements such as plants, leaves, and sea creatures, comes to life the moment it is worn and interacts with the wearer.

Simon Williams, Pipes Cufflinks
Simon Williams, Pipes Cufflinks, 2017, oxidized sterling silver, top of cufflinks 7.5 x 15 x 23 mm total height, photo: artist

Gallery: Zu design
Contact: Jane
Artist: Simon Williams
Retail price: AUS$630

Simon Williams is a mid-career maker. He created the Pipes series after he saw pipe organs on a trip to Copenhagen. The collection of different-sized polished tubes, which create varying notes, were reminiscent of geological forms that he had seen the week before in Iceland. These pieces are a perfect combination of Williams’s passion for both geological forms and contemporary jewelry.

Jiro Kamata, Holon Necklace #21
Jiro Kamata, Holon Necklace #21, 2022, necklace, camera lens, PVD coating, silver, total length 620 mm, photo: artist

Gallery: ATTA Gallery
Contact: Atty Tantivit
Artist: Jiro Kamata
Retail price: 203,500 THB

This eye-catching, one-of-a-kind necklace is from Jiro Kamata’s newest series, Holon. The Holon series has been exhibited at Alien Art Center in Kaohsiung, Taiwan, in a duo exhibition with a French photographer titled HOPE; during Munich Jewelry Week in a group exhibition; and now at ATTA Gallery, in Bangkok, in a joint solo exhibition with a Thai photographer. A necklace from the Holon series was recently acquired by the Museum of Arts and Design, in NYC.

Marie-Louise Kristensen, Hello
Marie-Louise Kristensen, Hello, 2020, brooch, Milliput (epoxy putty), mica, quartz, silver, 93 x 62 x 20 mm, photo: Dorte Krogh

Gallery: Four Gallery
Contact: Karin Roy Andersson
Artist: Marie-Louise Kristensen
Retail price: US$500

Marie-Louise Kristensen is a storyteller. Her work consists of everyday impressions and observations but also her own additions and reflections. With humor, warmth, and some sharp arrows, Kristensen creates a universe with a very special gravity.

Philip Sajet, Wolves
Philip Sajet, Wolves, 2022, necklace, niello on silver, rubies, pearls, gold, approximately 250 x 150 x 40 mm, photo courtesy of the artist and Galerie Door

Gallery: Galerie Door
Contact: Doreen Timmers
Artist: Philip Sajet
Retail price: €8,000

This marvelous Wolves necklace, by Philip Sajet (1953 Amsterdam), shows that his work still occupies an exceptional position in the art jewelry landscape. Sajet’s work tells of the jewel, beauty, and seduction, and his craftsmanship is phenomenal. Especially for the exhibition Flowers and Wolves, Sajet has made this necklace, which consists of five wolves’ heads—cut and folded from thin silver plate—with red eyes and a rough niello surface. The coarse niello, the dangerous wolf, contrasts and is kept in check by the soft shine of pearls laced with gold thread. This necklace is part of the exhibition Flowers and Wolves, which is the 20th exhibition and the start of the fifth anniversary of Galerie Door. On display until November 5, 2022.

Sam Kelly, Square
Sam Kelly, Square, 2022, pendant, cow bone, nylon cord, 80 x 40 x 10 mm, photo: Michael Couper

Gallery: Fingers Gallery
Contact: Lisa Higgins
Artist: Sam Kelly
Retail price: NZ$560

Sam Kelly is a bone carver. She engages in an intense and sometimes gruesome relationship with her chosen material. Drawing inspiration from patterns in the everyday and from details in the urban landscape, the physicality of the transformation makes these clean white surfaces even more precious to her. For years, achieving the perfect whiteness was her aim for the bone, but gradually she has started to appreciate its beauty in a variety of shades. Kelly lives and works in New Plymouth, New Zealand.

Andrea Wagner, Golden Waters Cave under Amber Lakes-1 (sub-series … And the Architect Is still Facing His Jardin Intérieur)
Andrea Wagner, Golden Waters Cave under Amber Lakes-1 (sub-series … And the Architect Is still Facing His Jardin Intérieur), 2018, silver, amber, color-stained bone china porcelain, glass-resin composite, paper, fluorescent pigment, stainless steel, 100 x 60 x 50 mm, photo: artist

Gallery: Galerie Spektrum
Contact: Jürgen Eickhoff
Artist: Andrea Wagner
Retail price: €2,280

A wonderful brooch with a fantastic title from an outstanding Dutch/German artist.

 

 

 

The post On Offer appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

OMG, Have You Heard

$
0
0

September 2022, Part 2

Art Jewelry Forum is pleased to share the news that members of our community find noteworthy. Is something missing? The success of this compilation of compelling events, news, and items of interest to the jewelry community depends on YOUR participation. If you’re a member of AJF at the Silver level or above, you can add news and ideas to this bi-monthly report by going here. If you aren’t a member, but would like to become one, join AJF here.

Listings gathered with assistance from Carrie Yodanis.

AJF LIVE WITH JEWELRY COLLECTOR, CURATOR, AND WRITER JORUNN VEITEBERG!

“For me, collecting has been an activity I equate first and foremost with happiness,” says Veiteberg. Last year she wrote The Jewellery Box, which is about her jewelry collection and covers 50 years of her life, from 1969 to 2019. Veiteberg will talk about why she became a collector, her passion for collecting art jewelry, the important link between collecting and remembering, and what jewelry can do for us. And of course, we’ll see lots of jewelry—a selection from her collection. She owns over 550 pieces by more than 200 jewelry artists from 30 different countries! For a minimum $20 donation, you can be part of this exclusive and interactive AJF Live event. At the same time, you’ll help support all of the programming and editorial content you rely on throughout the year. Via Zoom, Wednesday, September 28, 2022, at 12 p.m. EST, Purchase your ticket here.


AJF LIVE WITH BONHAMS

Emily Waterfall, the director of the Jewelry Department for Bonhams Auction House, will preview jewelry from the Crawford Collection. Bonhams will present its second artist jewelry sale on October 18, 2022. This follows last year’s successful $1.7 million Wearable Art sale, drawn from the private collection of Byron and Jill Crawford. It featured pieces by Pablo Picasso, Max Ernst, and Charles Loloma. The upcoming sale will include important 20th-century silver artists William Spratling and Hans Hansen; designers Tapio Wirkkala and Hervé van der Straeten; fine artists Louise Nevelson and Claire Falkenstein; and talented artist-jewelers Bjorn Weckstrom and Antonio Pineda. On Zoom, Tuesday, October 4, 2022, at 12 p.m. EST. Free. Register here.


FEEL LIKE SEEING A JEWELRY SHOW?

Find these listings and many, many more on our dedicated exhibition page:

 

FROM OUR MEMBERS

POSITION OPEN AT BALTIMORE JEWELRY CENTER

The Baltimore Jewelry Center seeks a part-time studio assistant (15 hours/week) who is knowledgeable about metalsmithing and jewelry, as well as facilities management. The ideal candidate is an excellent communicator who enjoys supporting users of BJC’s space with the ultimate goal of leading everyone toward an independent studio practice. This position is focused on supporting the programming and daily management of the BJC, its studio and program managers, and its students and renters. Info.


NATIVE AMERICAN JEWELRY HAS STRUCK A CHORD WITH AUSTRALIAN SHOPPERS

Find out why in The Jewelry Journey’s interview with Jennifer Cullen, the owner of Four Winds Gallery, a gallery in Double Bay, Australia, that focuses on jewelry of the American Southwest. Listen to the podcast.


CHARON KRANSEN SEMINAR: “OLD WAYS VS NEW … AN EXPLORATION”

In conjunction with this fall’s SMG NW Jewelry Symposium, Kransen will offer a one-day seminar on October 14, 2022, from 10–5. Space is limited. Info.


HUNTER FROM ELSEWHERE WILL BE SCREENED AT DOK.FEST

See the documentary about Helen Britton at Munich’s Neues Rottmann theater on September 22, at 8 p.m. Info. Can’t make it? The director says she hopes to show the film at NYCJW and afterward plans to set it up as video on demand.


KARIN ROY ANDERSSON AND ZACHERY LECHTENBERG AMONG NEW ACQUISITIONS AT RIAN DESIGN MUSEUM

You can see the work in the upcoming exhibition Car Helmet, Hiding Place and Steller’s Scream: New Additions to the Collections, which will show 40 pieces acquired in the last five years. Through November 20, 2022. Info.


SEBASTIAN GRANT WILL GIVE THE ANNUAL DAPHNE FARAGO FUND LECTURE

Grant will present We Two: Exploring the Importance of Community and Collaboration in Black Art Jewelry. Black jewelers occupy a crucial space in the history of American craftsmanship. As they sought inspiration from African culture, Black artists and designers built a creative community that made their successes possible. Explore this history in a talk that highlights the work of Black jewelers Winifred Mason, Art Smith, and Joyce Scott. In person at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, October 2, 2022, at 2 p.m. Free, but tickets must be reserved in advance. Register.


KIFF SLEMMONS TO LECTURE ON JEWELRY’S PLACE IN CULTURE

Reflecting on the last 50 years of her work, Slemmons will examine jewelry’s capacity for meaning and metaphor, its reflection of identity, its potential to offer protection, and its release from convention. Presented in conjunction with the installation American Jewelry: The Susan Grant Lewin Collection, at the Yale University Art Gallery. On Zoom, September 30, 2022, at 3:45 PM EST. Register.


MICKI LIPPI EXHIBITS PART OF HER JEWELRY COLLECTION

Like many artists, Lippi traded work with fellow makers when she traveled to events. It’s a great way to build an interesting collection. This selection of 35 pieces, curated by Maru Almeida, includes work created by a wide range of artists over a couple decades. Through October 10, 2022. Learn more.


MÒNICA GASPAR WILL GIVE THE 2022 PETER DORMER LECTURE

The UK’s major annual applied arts lecture, held in memory of Peter Dormer, aims to continue the debate about applied art and society. Titled Like oil and water, experiments with craft and theory, Gaspar’s lecture will draw from her experiences as curator, writer, and educator in the fields of craft and product design. Online and on-site at Royal College of Art, Gorvy Lecture Theatre, October 3, 2022, at 6:30 pm (UTC+1). Register here by September 29, 2022.

EVENTS

ŠPERKSTRET 2022: SEPTEMBER 22–24, 2022

The international conference of contemporary jewelry, held in Bratislava, Slovakia, is an active platform for contemporary jewelry discussions held by professional jewelers, collectors, art theorists, curators, and the general public. This edition aims to stimulate the way of thinking that we can look at contemporary art objects that work with their own performance, timeliness, the principle of the game, and other socially stimulating strategies. Website. IG.

 

 


AUCTION: ART AS JEWELRY AS ART

This online auction, from Sotheby’s, will run September 23–October 4, 2022. “A growing trend in the market is unique pieces that allow collectors to wear their art,” states the auction house. Includes about 150 pieces that can be worn as adornment or exhibited as part of a collection—works by Louise Nevelson, Calder, Dalì, Claude Lalanne, George Braque, both Pomodoro brothers, Pol Bury, Kiki Smith, Louise Bourgeois, Picasso, Max Ernst, Ettore Sottsass, Jesus Raphael Soto, Man Ray, and many others. Info.


BRILLIANT & BLACK: AGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT

After last year’s triumphant selling exhibition celebrating Black jewelry designers, Sotheby’s’s new edition of Brilliant & Black focuses on enlightenment and the continuous representation of Black talent. Curated by Melanie Grant, who wrote about it in British Vogue. In London, September 22–October 2, 2022.


GOLDSMITHS’ FAIR: SEPTEMBER 27–OCTOBER 9, 2022

From wire work to 3D printing, traditional goldsmithing to intricate engraving, ancient techniques combine with modern-day technologies, ensuring there will be something for everyone with a passion for fine jewelry and contemporary silver. A cohort of new exhibitors joins master craftspeople whose careers were launched at the fair over the last four decades. In London. Info.



OBJECTS OF DESIRE: SURREALISM AND DESIGN 1924–TODAY

Curated with Vitra Design Museum, the exhibition will explore design from the birth of surrealism in 1924 to the current day; spanning classic Surrealist works of art and design as well as contemporary surrealist responses. At the Design Museum, in London, October 14, 2022­–February 19, 2023. Read the NYT review.


COLLECT: MARCH 1–5, 2023

Traveling to Schmuck? While you’re at it, tack on a few extra days for a side trip to London to take in this show, too! Info.

 

 

 

 

OPPORTUNITIES

RENWICK FELLOWSHIP INVITES APPLICATIONS

The Smithsonian American Art Museum and its Renwick Gallery fellowship program is the oldest and largest in American art. Open to scholars from any discipline who are researching the art, craft, and visual culture of the US. Deadline: November 1, 2022. Info.


GRANT FOR TEACHING CRAFT ARTISTS

Via its Teaching Artist Cohort grant, the Center for Craft will award 21 mid-career teaching craft artists a one-time, unrestricted grant of $10,000. Applications are due November 30, 2022. Info.


INVOLUTION: MAKING JEWELLERY, CREATING CHANGE

The 19th Jewellers and Metalsmiths Group of Australian national biennial conference seeks submissions for conference papers, workshops, and exhibitions. The conference will take place in Perth in October 2024. Submission deadline: November 30, 2022. Info.

 

PAGES

EVELI: A JEWELER’S MEMOIR

An intimate journey through the life, work, and influences of Eveli Sabatie, the protégé of Hopi artist Charles Loloma. Gathers stories and poems as well as photographs of stunning Hopi and Moroccan-inspired mosaic jewelry. A profound reflection on the earth through the medium of jewelry. More info.


ESTHER BRINKMANN

See the Swiss artist’s oeuvre from the past 30 years. Her work is characterized by the meaning she bestows on the ring, its relationship to the hand and, perhaps most surprisingly, to its case. She prefers processed and textured materials, which now also include new component forms, techniques, and substances since her time living in China and India. From Arnoldsche.


ICE COLD: A HIP-HOP JEWELRY HISTORY

Journalist and curator Vikki Tobak presents the bling culture of rappers and their jewelry. With 40 years of iconic imagery and compelling stories, this visual history shines a light on the world of hip-hop, where mega stars from Run-DMC to Tupac and Jay-Z to Cardi B flash brilliant custom pieces to show status and personal style. “It’s almost impossible to separate the gemstones from the bigger narrative of politics, street savvy, and historical complexity,” says the author. From TaschenRead the review in the NYT.


NAVAJO AND PUEBLO JEWELRY DESIGN: 1870–1945

Author Paula A. Baxter explores the work of Navajo and Pueblo craftspeople during a 75-year period when Native American jewelry became increasingly popular in the US and international marketplace. A richly illustrated study of jewelry-design history, and a must-have for collectors, jewelry designers, and students and scholars of Native American arts. Info.


WHAT I’M WEARING

Caroline Billing, The National’s director, started this project during the first Australian lockdown, in 2020. People on Instagram were asked to share what jewelry they were wearing. It was turned into a book because “it felt relevant to create an object … as a tangible reminder of a time when we were all in uncharted territory and trying to understand, and make meaning in a new quotidian.” Info. Order.

 

 

 

INTERESTING LINKS

A “HERMIT” JEWELER BECOMES A MUSEUM CURATOR

Emefa Cole first exhibited her bold, sculptural jewelry at a craft fair. Now she’s taking on a new role at London’s V&A. Read the article.


NECKLACE CELEBRATES WOMEN AND A 50-YEAR REIGN IN DENMARK

Georg Jensen collaborated with the architecture firm Big to create a necklace celebrating Danish Queen Margrethe II’s 50th year on the throne. The 50 sterling silver blocks in the one-off necklace highlight 50 inspiring Danish women of historical and cultural importance. Learn more.


AN ICE CUBE NECKLACE CELEBRATES THE VALUE OF WATER

Made by Paris-based design studio Golem, the unfortunately named OoOoooOoooOh la l’ice necklace—really? Lice?!—melts within 30 minutes. The cool accessory underlines water scarcity as temperatures rise across the globe … but it’s perfect for clubbing. Info.


IN DALLAS, EAST MEETS WEST IN JEWELRY

“Although other exhibitions have explored the influence that countries such as India and China have had on the firm’s jewelry,” writes The Magazine Antiques,Cartier and Islamic Art is the first to focus on the broader category of the Islamic world.” Read the article.


RAQUEL BESSUDO PUBLISHED IN GARLAND MAGAZINE

The jewelry artist wrote about a tapestry by Esteban Leñero that was inspired by the churches of Michoacán. Read it here.


ADORNING: QUEER PACIFIC IDENTITY

Curator Vanessa de Gruijter discusses jewelry and body decoration in relation to decolonization, cultural identity, and diversity. Read it here.


INDIE JEWELRY GETS SPOTLIGHT AT VENICE FILM FESTIVAL

Independent jewelry designers are finally getting space on the red carpet, reports the NYT. See more.

 


RECYCLED GOLD

An article about jewelry made from precious metal recycled from our e-waste.


TIKTOKERS TALK JEWELRY

Say that five times fast! An article about the benefits and challenges of showcasing jewelry on TikTok.


INSIDE THE DREAM, A NEW FILM ABOUT BULGARI

Follows a necklace in the Magnifica collection from its inception—design, stone selection, and production—to its introduction around Zendaya’s neck at the 2021 world premiere of Dune at the Venice International Film Festival. Watch the trailer. Read a review. Watch on Amazon Prime Video.


INCREASINGLY, MUSEUMS SHOW JEWELRY DIGITALLY

The NYT reports that jewelry collections in museums, including the Islamic Museum of Art, V&A, and Schmuckmuseum, are increasingly online and providing more information about the history of the jewelry.

 

 

 


15 ARTISTS TO KNOW FROM INDIAN MARKET

Vogue highlights some of the jewelry artists who showed work, as well as those creating garments. Read it here.


SEMEN JEWELRY

After jewelry made from breast milk, jewelry composed of semen comes as no surprise. Warning: The jewelry itself is innocuous, but this article is not for those who get queasy easily.

 

The post OMG, Have You Heard appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.


Checking in with Cong Ma

$
0
0

More than 100 international artists applied for this year’s Young Artist Award. Cong Ma was chosen as one of the finalists. She received an unrestricted cash award of US$1,000 and exhibited her work in Platina’s booth at Schmuck, in July 2022.

Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Group
Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Group, 2021, brooch, sterling silver, fine silver, acrylic paint, 30 x 30 x 40 mm, photo: Shawn Zhang

AJF’s Young Artist Award acknowledges promise, innovation, and individuality, advancing the careers of rising artists. The competition was open to makers of wearable art age 35 and under who are not currently enrolled in a professional training program. Judging was based on originality, depth of concept, and quality of craftsmanship. This year’s jurors were 2020 AJF Artist Award winner MJ Tyson (US); collector and gallerist Karen Rotenberg (US); and educator and curator Chequita Nahar (The Netherlands).

Ma’s work represents a group of outstanding pieces of contemporary jewelry. We asked her to tell us a bit about her background and thoughts on the future of the field.

Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Fruit Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Polytope

Bonnie Levine:  Congratulations on being one of the five finalists for the 2022 Young Artist Award. What an accomplishment! Please introduce yourself to our readers. How did you become interested in jewelry? What inspires your work?    

Cong Ma: I am a painter, a jewelry maker, and a designer. Born to a family of artists, I have been drawing ever since I could pick up a pen. I found my interest in art jewelry because it is a unique art form independent of any functionality yet close to the people wearing it.

Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Ring
Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Ring, 2021, sterling silver, brass, fine silver, acrylic paint, 95 x 22 x 1 mm, photo: Shawn Zhang

What does being a finalist mean for you? Do you think it will influence you going forward?

Cong Ma: Being a finalist makes me want to stick with art jewelry. I see the creativity among all the finalists, and I am grateful to be connected to this community, especially after a post-COVID era of rising technology and quarantine. By being in this community, my awareness will keep up with the times, and that’s important to an artist’s development.

Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Necklace
Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Necklace, 2021, sterling silver, brass, fine silver, acrylic paint, 300 x 34 x 58 mm, photo: Shawn Zhang

Tell us about the work you applied with. 

Cong Ma: I see jewelry as a means to an end for learning about all kinds of knowledge that interest me. My interest in geometry and higher dimensions inspired this body of work. For example, a three-dimensional ball going through a two-dimensional thing would appear to be a circle growing and then getting smaller until it disappears. Likewise, a 90-degree angle intersecting a slanted surface unfolded onto a two-dimensional plane is no longer 90 degrees. These are fascinating observations and phenomena. I would like to convey these illusions through my work in an abstract way.

Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Cross Cone
Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Cross Cone, 2021, brooch, sterling silver, brass, fine silver, acrylic paint, 67 x 36 x 65 mm, photo: Shawn Zhang

What excites you about the art jewelry field? 

Cong Ma: I enjoy making art jewelry because of the freedom it gives me to talk about any topic in the world that interests me in meaningful ways.

Any frustrations that you see or have experienced? 

Cong Ma: The relationship between my art and me is very natural. Whenever I have an idea, I can realize about 90% of that idea, and I am always pleased. If there ever were any frustrations, it might be that I would like to learn more techniques in jewelry-making to be able to express more of my ideas. But that would require some time and commitment to learning in the future.

Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Cubicle
Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Cubicle, 2021, brooch, sterling silver, brass, fine silver, acrylic paint, 67 x 36 x 65 mm, photo: Shawn Zhang

Where do you think art jewelry is going? Do you see any new and exciting trends?

Cong Ma: I imagine the art jewelry field going in several ways. First, because the audience is relatively small compared to other art fields, it could have the potential to grow very big, to the extent that its definition becomes ambiguous. It could potentially merge with fashion, furniture, or technology in the form of games and NFT, which one can never wear. So people might not want a physical piece to wear and call jewelry, but they could have an urge to associate, fantasize, and ultimately express.

Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 (detail)
Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 (detail), 2021, brooch, sterling silver, fine silver, acrylic paint, 30 x 30 x 40 mm, photo: Shawn Zhang

Where would you like to be five years from now?

Cong Ma: I want to continue to think about art jewelry philosophically. Through my own experiences and exposures, I can develop a mature theory in design. I see it in the form of a treatise where I would systematically examine my thoughts and have my artworks reflect those ideas.

Congratulations again! Thank you for taking the time to answer these questions.

This is the last of our interviews with the honorees. Read the interview with Young Artist Award winner Mallory Weston here. Our interview with finalist Taisha Carrington is here. Check out Marion Delarue’s interview here. You’ll find our interview with Aaron Decker here.

Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Cross Cone Triangle
Cong Ma, Fine Art 101 Cross Cone Triangle, 2021, brooch, sterling silver, brass, fine silver, acrylic paint, 67 x 36 x 65 mm, photo: Shawn Zhang

The post Checking in with Cong Ma appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

On Offer

$
0
0

October 2022, Part 1

There are so many reasons to purchase art jewelry…

  • You got that hard-earned promotion—celebrate!
  • You’re experiencing a once-in-a-lifetime occasion—honor it.
  • You wrapped up that major accomplishment—pay it tribute.
  • You want to mark the beginning of a new relationship or the end of one—commemorate it.
  • As an investment—do it!
  • It’s the perfect piece to round out an aspect of your collection—pounce!
  • Or maybe it’s as a treat for yourself—just because.

Art Jewelry Forum’s international gallery supporters celebrate and exhibit art jewelry. Our monthly On Offer series allows this extensive network of international galleries to showcase extraordinary pieces personally selected to tempt and inspire you. Take a look. You’re bound to find a fantastic piece you simply have to add to your collection! (Please contact the gallery directly for inquiries.)

Catarina Silva, Aquele Querido Mês de Agosto (Our Beloved Month of August)
Catarina Silva, Aquele Querido Mês de Agosto (Our Beloved Month of August), 2021, necklace, old cookie box, glass beads, 440 x 210 x 5 mm (dimensions variable), photo courtesy of Galeria Tereza Seabra

Gallery: Galeria Tereza Seabra
Contact: Tereza Seabra
Artist: Catarina Silva
Retail price: €920, plus shipping

“Love letters, an old photo, a rock with your beloved’s name, a broken beaded necklace, a swimming pool … how many memories can be saved in an old cookie box! Memories of intimate relationships that are collected and that are recalled in melancholy days.” —Catarina Silva, 2021

Felieke Van Der Leest, Bubble Train
Felieke Van Der Leest, Bubble Train, 2022, object with bracelet, silver, artificial resin, plastic base: 130 mm, bracelet: 230 x 15 x 25 mm, photo courtesy of Galeria Reverso

Gallery: Galeria Reverso
Contact: Paula Crespo
Artist: Felieke Van Der Leest
Retail price: €3,000

This piece is part of Reverso’s current exhibition, Pop It or Pin It. “The most important part of bubble wrap is the invisible air in the bubbles,” says Felieke Van Der Leest. “Visible and materialized in clear resin, it has become cabochon cargo to be transported by the silver Bubble Train.”

Andrea Wagner, Mémoires d'Eau
Andrea Wagner, Mémoires d’Eau, 2020, pendant, hand-cut quartz (rock crystal), silver, textile, glass/resin composite, synthetic resin, paper, 140 x 100 x 30 mm, 650 mm long, 170 g, photo: artist

Gallery: Galerie Noel Guyomarc’h
Contact: Noel Guyomarc’h
Artist: Andrea Wagner
Retail price: CAN$4,700

Water is everywhere, essential to all forms of life. It soothes us through its soft splashes, and its sparkling waterways bring us peace and tranquility. Andrea Wagner’s works are composed of crystals that are either cut in quartz or cast in transparent resin, and through which one can glimpse the photographed or drawn patterns of ripples and reflections on the surface of the water. The faceted crystals evoke the shimmer of the sea while bearing a multitude of translucent granules that are reminiscent of fine droplets. Wagner looks at the eternal nature of water, which can change its state infinitely—from solid to liquid to gas.

Everett Hoffman, Circle Fold
Everett Hoffman, Circle Fold, 2022, necklace, vintage rhinestones, zinc, aluminum, stainless steel, 152 x 89 x 51 mm, photo courtesy of the artist
@baltimorejewelrycenter

Gallery: Baltimore Jewelry Center
Contact: Shane Prada
Artist: Everett Hoffman
Retail price: US$750

Everett Hoffman is a cross-disciplinary artist, curator, and writer currently completing a three-year residency at Penland School of Craft, where he lives with his partner and their dog, Clementine. Hoffman received his MFA from Virginia Commonwealth University (2018), and BFA from Boise State University (2013). He has completed residencies at Arrowmont School of Art and Craft (2018–2019), and the Baltimore Jewelry Center (2019). This work was on view as part of The One and the Many: A Metal Shop Exhibition of Art and Production Jewelry at the Baltimore Jewelry Center.

2Roses, Queens Lost Jewel (Ring)
2Roses, Queens Lost Jewel (Ring), emu egg, bronze, artisan glass, pearls, wooden stands, ring size 10, 279 x 152 mm overall, photo courtesy of Sculpture To Wear

Gallery: Sculpture To Wear
Contact: Lisa M. Berman
Artist: 2Roses
Retail price: US$2,500

To attempt to create a wearable object from a fragile egg is daunting at best, and then actually engineering it is incredibly challenging. Elegant and streamlined, this piece is fastened with absolute precision (eggs provide no flexibility) as it is tension set in its own cradle. It took two months to create this royal masterpiece. 2Roses’s work is known for its humor and use of unconventional materials. Many of the ideas expressed in their work play with concepts of class, status, and power as drivers of human behavior. This emu-egg ring explores the clash of style over substance through the contradiction of form and function.

Elin Flognman, Necklace, Giant
Elin Flognman, Necklace, Giant, 2021, amber, wool, leather, brass, steel, 300 x 200 x 10 mm, photo: artist

Gallery: Platina Stockholm
Contact: Sofia Björkman
Artist: Elin Flognman
Retail price: US$900

Elin Flognman’s work is a tribute to everyday life and the things that surround us. What we may not have thought could be jewelry is exactly what she picks up and makes jewelry from. It can be a potato or a butter knife, or—as in this necklace—she puts together material in a way that turns beauty into ugliness or the other way around. The results are always unexpected and filled with humor. Elin Flognman is a Swedish jewelry artist. She received her MFA in jewelry art from HDK – School of Design and Crafts, in Gothenburg, in 2013.

Danielle Rickaby, d shackle
Danielle Rickaby, d shackle, 2022, neckpiece with found object, lampworked borosilicate glass, links 25 x 25 mm, 510 mm long, pendant from bar 50 mm, photo: Jane Bowden

Gallery: Zu design
Contact: Jane Bowden
Artist: Danielle Rickaby
Retail price: AUS $850

d shackle, in lime green, was made as part of a series of three lampworked borosilicate glass neckpieces by Danielle Rickaby. The sound the links make as they move against each other is beautiful. This work was created for an exhibition of local South Australian makers currently showing at Zu design. The gallery invited makers to respond to the title Odds & Ends.

Andrea Daly, Untitled
Andrea Daly, Untitled, 2022, earrings, (left) pearls, sterling silver, gold leaf, 35 x 25 x 10 mm, (right) lapis lazuli, sterling silver, gold leaf, 40 x 20 x 8 mm, photo: Michael Couper

Gallery: Fingers Gallery
Contact: Lisa Higgins
Artist: Andrea Daly
Retail price: Each NZ$750

Influenced by her Catholic upbringing in the Hokianga area of Northland, Andrea Daly’s works possess a Catholic sensibility in terms of their beaded, embroidered, and golden surfaces and the use of literal and abstract religious iconography. Although no longer a practicing Catholic, she is what has been termed an “ethnic Catholic” in the sense that Catholic knowledge and sensibilities remain deeply ingrained and these sensibilities continue to inform and be celebrated within her making. Daly has a post-graduate diploma in visual arts majoring in contemporary jewelry from Sydney College of the Arts, and a master’s in philosophy majoring in art history from Auckland University.

Jenny Edlund, Arguing with Nature, Waterwood
Jenny Edlund, Arguing with Nature, Waterwood, necklace, wood, freshwater pearls, textile ribbon, silver, pendant 135 x 30 mm, necklace 740 mm long, photo courtesy of Four Gallery

Gallery: Four Gallery
Contact: Karin Roy Andersson
Artist: Jenny Edlund
Retail price: US$840

Jewelry art is a collaboration between the brain and the body. Ideas create nerve impulses that initiate a complex series of movements and they are affected by the qualities of the materials and tools. New signals are sent back, leaving their imprint and moving the process forward. To Jenny Edlund, art-jewelry-making is a way of processing impressions. Big questions and small problems are handled through her creative process.

Steven KP, Relief Necklace I
Steven KP, Relief Necklace I, 2022, ebonized hand-carved cherry wood, sterling silver, deerskin cord, 533 x 51 x 32 mm, each panel 108 x 51 mm, photo courtesy of Gallery Loupe

Gallery: Gallery Loupe
Contact: Patti Bleicher
Artist: Steven KP
Retail price: US$2,800

At first glance the elegant wooden jewelry by American artist Steven KP (he/they) appears to be just that. Yet these lyrical objects must also be read as metaphors for the queer lived experience. Although not readily apparent upon an initial viewing, their graceful, meticulously carved gestures denote a need among queer people to pass as conventional to be safe, just as the jewelry actually passes between spaces via flowing lines which, nonetheless, remain stationary—thus symbolizing stable queer relationships and dependencies—each self-reliant as it loops around and folds over onto itself.

Marianne Schliwinski, Golden Eight
Marianne Schliwinski, Golden Eight, 2010, brooch, bark, paint, glass figure-eight, 83 x 80 x 28 mm, photo: Jürgen Eickhoff

Gallery: Galerie Spektrum
Contact: Jürgen Eickhoff
Artist: Marianne Schliwinski
Retail price: €1,650

Marianne Schliwinski’s Golden Eight brooch combines the symbol of eternity, the color of abundance, and the material of nature. These different symbols are brought together by the artist in a harmonic unity. In Schliwinski’s work you always find elements that require a second look.

Etsuko Sonobe, PR-07
Etsuko Sonobe, PR-07, 2022, brooch, 20-karat gold, rock crystal, 75 x 36 x 20 mm, photo courtesy of Gallery Viceversa

Gallery: Gallery Viceversa
Contact: ilona Schwippel
Artist: Etsuko Sonobe
Retail price: 3,900 CHF

The clarity of her formal language allows Etsuko Sonobe to approach the ornament under the angle of a geometry in which the light occupies a place of choice, that of the drunkenness of the depths of this fourth state of the matter to which the poet invites us. Impressed by the essential force of the materials, she wonders how we look at the future.

The post On Offer appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

OMG, Have You Heard

$
0
0

October 2022, Part 1

Art Jewelry Forum is pleased to share the news that members of our community find noteworthy. Is something missing? The success of this compilation of compelling events, news, and items of interest to the jewelry community depends on YOUR participation. If you’re a member of AJF at the Silver level or above, you can add news and ideas to this bi-monthly report by going here. If you aren’t a member, but would like to become one, join AJF here.
Listings gathered with assistance from Carrie Yodanis.

TODAY!! DON’T MISS IT! AJF LIVE WITH BONHAMS

Get an exclusive preview of artist jewelry from the multi-owner auction to be sold on November 10, 2022! You’ll see work by important 20th-century silver artists William Spratling and Hans Hansen; designers Tapio Wirkkala and Hervé van der Straeten; fine artists Louise Nevelson and Claire Falkenstein; talented artist-jewelers Bjorn Weckstrom, Jean Després, and Antonio Pineda; fun Zuni-Toons pieces; and so much more! Tuesday, October 4, 2022, 12 p.m. EST. Register here.


APPLICATIONS OPEN SOON FOR THE $20,000 SUSAN BEECH MID-CAREER GRANT

The application portal for the 2023 Susan Beech Mid-Career Grant opens November 1, 2022. Open to makers aged 35­–55. The proposed project should be about jewelry, loosely defined. Find information and guidelines here.


FEEL LIKE SEEING A JEWELRY SHOW?

Find these listings and many, many more on our dedicated exhibition page:

FROM OUR MEMBERS

LISA M. BERMAN TO CURATE EXPERIENTIAL JOURNEYS, A SPECIAL EXHIBITION AT MILANO JEWELRY WEEK

Museum curator Lisa M. Berman, of Sculpture To Wear Gallery, has been selected to curate a special exhibition called Experiential Journeys on behalf of the return of Milano Jewelry Week October 20–23, 2022. This one-of-its-kind event will have 750 exhibitors in over 100 locations and more than 150 scheduled events. Thanks to the Experiential Journeys, notable icons from the jewelry world, such as Christie’s, Sotheby’s, Ippolita, Sicis Jewels, Gioielleria Pederzani, Veronesi Gioielli d’Epoca, and Cielo 1914, will offer unique installations, seminars, meetings, and stories from behind the scenes. Events are free to attend. Berman was appointed the first United States Ambassador to Artistar Jewels in 2020. This is her curatorial debut for them. 100K printed guides will be distributed during the event and available on-line.


LISA GRALNICK RECEIVES FELLOWSHIP

In her work, Gralnick, Fred Fenster Professor of Art, explores the use of jewelry as a conceptual reference point. She mines the history and cultural contexts of both adornment and gold, and, as a goldsmith and sculptor, has explored issues related to value and economics, intimacy and preciousness, and material culture in world history. Learn more.


POSITION OPEN AT BALTIMORE JEWELRY CENTER

The Baltimore Jewelry Center seeks a part-time studio assistant (15 hours per week) who is knowledgeable about metalsmithing and jewelry, as well as facilities management. The ideal candidate is an excellent communicator who enjoys supporting users of BJC’s space with the ultimate goal of leading everyone toward an independent studio practice. This position is focused on supporting the programming and daily management of the BJC, its studio and program managers, and its students and renters. Info.


WARREN FELD TALKS JEWELRY ENGINEERING ON THE JEWELRY JOURNEY

The founder of The Center for Beadwork & Jewelry Arts discusses how designing a bracelet is the same as designing a bridge; why jewelry has its own design language, separate from the language of fine art or craft; why the architecture of a piece of jewelry is as important as its visual design; and more. Listen to the podcast.


BONHAMS TO AUCTION ARTIST JEWELRY ON NOVEMBER 10, 2022

It will feature jewelry from the Crawford Collection, including important 20th-century silver artists William Spratling and Hans Hansen; designers Tapio Wirkkala and Hervé van der Straeten; fine artists Louise Nevelson and Claire Falkenstein; and talented artist-jewelers Bjorn Weckstrom and Antonio Pineda. Info.


2ROSES PARTICIPATE IN INSPIRED BY EXHIBITION

The jurored group show opened September 24, 2022, in the Roderick Eli Briggs Memorial Gallery, in Long Beach, CA. Info.


HARRIETE ESTEL BERMAN SEEKS A PART-TIME STUDIO ASSISTANT

Indicate your interest by posting to her Facebook page.


KAREN SMITH TO GIVE ARTIST’S TALK AT PRATT

Smith founded We Wield the Hammer. Learn about her journey to becoming an artist and educator who has built representation with the jewelry and metalsmithing industry. October 11, 2022, 6­:30—8 p.m. Free; register.

 

 


BAKEOFF STAR HAS PLAYFUL, WALL-SIZED JEWELRY DISPLAY

The house belonging to Prue Leith and her husband, John Playfair, has as many pop shades on its walls and floors as you’ll find in Leith’s famous collections of bauble necklaces. See the rest of their home in the Financial Times.


MIND-BLOWING CARVING IN GEMS

Bryan D. Drummond engraves fractals, grids, religious symbols, and ancient architecture in eclectic patterns on gemstones. The Las Vegas-based artist carves naturally occurring motifs and geometric designs into jewels like blue topaz, citrine, and tourmaline, adding depth to the glimmering surfaces. See more.


BUY A RING AND SUPPORT PLANNED PARENTHOOD

Feminist activist Gloria Steinem collaborated with Jill Platner to create a ring, the proceeds of which all go to support Planned Parenthood. The collaboration will be featured as part of Hillary and Chelsea Clinton’s Gutsy series on Apple TV. Info.


WEARABLE ART IS THE NEXT FRONTIER IN COLLECTING

Artist-made jewelry is no longer an outlier as wearable pieces head to auction and museum collections, states the New York Times. “It tends to be colorful, large, and flamboyant,” said Cynthia Amneus, curator at the Cincinnati Art Museum, which exhibited art jewelers last year, “but people are wearing it and showing off their wealth and their fashion sense.” But is it an investment? Susan Cummins, AJF’s founder, makes a distinction between artists’ jewelry, conceived and often signed by a recognized artist, and art jewelry, created by lesser-known artisans who may not rely on precious materials. “In terms of auction there isn’t a huge market for art jewelry, whereas there is for artists’ jewelry,” Cummins said. Artists’ jewelry is more likely to hold value, she said. “But some people buy it for status.”

 

EVENTS

ANTWERP JEWELLERY WEEK, THROUGH OCTOBER 6, 2022

Antwerp Jewellery Week has as mission to promote artistic and artisanal jewelry in and from Antwerp. Craftsmanship, creativity, and innovation are the core themes. Info.


GOLDSMITHS’ FAIR CELEBRATES 40 YEARS IN EXISTENCE

From wire work to 3D printing, traditional goldsmithing to intricate engraving, the 136 exhibitors from the UK combine ancient techniques with modern-day technologies. At Goldsmiths’ Hall, London, through October 9, 2022. Info.


ROMANIAN JEWELRY WEEK: OCTOBER 6–9, 2022

Applications are now open to designers in Romania and worldwide—emerging as well as established artists. Deadline: June 17, 2022. Learn more.


ISRAEL BIENNALE OF CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY: NOVEMBER 10–14, 2022

Hosted by the Geological Museum, in Ramat Hasharon. AJF is an official sponsor. Info.


NYC JEWELRY WEEK, NOVEMBER 14–20, 2022

Hosts the best and brightest in the industry to deliver exhibitions, shopping experiences, artist collaborations, studio tours, new designer discovery, and more. Aims to modernize the way the world thinks about jewelry by bringing together everyone from the window shopper to the avid collector and truly celebrating jewelry for all. Info.


LITHIANIAN JEWELRY BIENNIAL TAKES PLACE NOW THROUGH FEBRUARY 28, 2023

The 6th International Biennial of Contemporary Jewellery and Metal Art METALLOphone: Memory of a Place focuses on memories associated with a specific place. Every place we go to affects us and we, in turn, leave our mark on it. 116 participating artists from 24 countries talk about places to which they return to recharge, and gain strength and support. At the Museum of Applied Arts and Design, in Vilnius, Lithuania. The main exhibition will be followed by two solo exhibitions: About a Bracelet, by Sigitas Virpilaitis, at the Museum of Applied Arts and Design; and Back to My Roots, by Catarina Hällzon, at Vilnensis gallery. Info.

 

OPPORTUNITIES

APPLY FOR HANDWERK & DESIGN 2023 NOW

From March 8–12, 2023, “Handwerk & Design” will present high craftsmanship, first-class handicrafts, and artistic design in hall B5, as part of Internationale Handwerksmesse. Look forward to first-class products from hand-picked exhibitors! Application deadline: October 5, 2022. Info.


BIPOC ARTIST RESIDENCY: NOLO COLLECTIVE JEWELRY STUDIO

“Our goal is to create a tangible opportunity within our corner of the jewelry industry by providing an NYC-based BIPOC jeweler with a fully furnished spot in the NoLo Collective Jewelry Studio, in Brooklyn, for 10 months.” Covers rent and a full basic bench set-up for the entire duration, plus collaborative photography services from within the NoLo collective. Certain materials credits will be awarded, including a $1,000 credit from continued sponsor and program mentor A and C Gem Trading Corp. 24/7 access to the shared tools in the studio. Deadline: October 10, 2022. Info.


LOEWE FOUNDATION CRAFT PRIZE 2023 APPLICATION DEADLINE LOOMS

The Loewe Foundation seeks to recognize uniquely talented artisans whose artistic vision and will to innovate set new standards for the future of craft. Prize: €50,000. The shortlisted and winning works will feature in the exhibition and accompanying catalog in New York in Spring 2023. Deadline: October 25, 2022. Info.


RESIDENCY AT DIVA, ANTWERP HOME OF DIAMONDS

Residents have the opportunity to address and engage with the public via a talk and a presentation. During the residency, leading makers, curators, theoreticians, and gallery owners visit the DIVA Atelier and provide personalized feedback. The residency lasts three months; travel and accommodation reimbursed up to €1,500; work and production budget of up to €1,500. Deadline for 2023 residency: November 6, 2022. Email with questions. Application form.


CALL FOR ENTRIES: ALLIAGES

Alliages’s 2023 exhibition will be called Missing Memories. “As artists we are especially obliged to find more memories, to find those memories that are hiding behind known memories, and that sometimes, by themselves, appear and disappear again. Sometimes through associations, sometimes through certain moods, and sometimes we can’t even fathom why.” Open to students, new graduates, and established artists. Deadline: November 6, 2022. Info.


APPLY FOR DESIGNERS IN RESIDENCE 2023 AT EMMA CREATIVE CENTER

Pforzheim city and Pforzheim University and Design Center Baden-Württemberg invite international young designers to its three-month scholarship program. “Designers in Residence” addresses those working in jewelry, fashion, accessory, industrial and communication design, as well as other design disciplines. Interdisciplinary project proposals are welcome. Fully equipped workplaces in the workshops will be available, as well as accommodations, monthly support, and travel reimbursement. Deadline: November 15, 2022. Additional info.


CENTER FOR CRAFT OFFERS MULTIPLE GRANTS

$10,000 awards will be granted to five mid-career artists to support research projects that advance, expand, and support the creation of new research and knowledge through craft practice. Fellows’ research will be disseminated through a publication, conference presentation, exhibition, film, or other format. Application deadline: October 21, 2022. Info. And the Teaching Artist Cohort will award 21 mid-career craft artists an unrestricted $10,000 and provide an opportunity to participate in an 8-month cohort experience where they will be guided through training that encourages and sustains a generative practice as both artists and educators. Application deadline: November 30, 2022. Info.


CALL FOR SUBMISSIONS FOR JMGA 2024

The Jewellers and Metalsmiths Group of Australia have convened biennially since 1980. The 2024 theme, “Involution: Making Jewellery, Creating Change,” captures the entangled pushing and pulling of organisms constantly inventing new ways to live with and alongside one another. The conference will bring together practitioners, educators and students, collectors, critics, and cultural theorists for two days of discussion, debate, interaction and the exchange of ideas. Workshops and exhibitions will run either side of the event over a range of venues. Submissions are now open for conference papers, workshops, and exhibitions. Deadline for abstracts and expressions of interest: November 30, 2022. Info.

The post OMG, Have You Heard appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

AJF Live with Bonhams

$
0
0

Art Jewelry Forum has expanded its efforts to connect more directly with the jewelry community by regularly hosting live chats online. We feature artist studio visits, talk with gallerists about shows they’re hosting, interview curators and authors, and have other programming tied to various jewelry weeks from around the globe. We record these all and post them on our website.

The post AJF Live with Bonhams appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

The Power of the Narrative in the 2020s

$
0
0

Museum of Arts and Design. Jewelry Stories: Highlights from the Collection 1947–2019. Edited by Barbara Paris Gifford. Stuttgart: Arnoldsche, 2021.

Published in conjunction with the exhibition 45 Stories in Jewelry, Jewelry Stories: Highlights from the Collection 1947–2019 offers a visual as well as literary feast. It celebrates the art jewelry collection of New York’s Museum of Arts and Design (MAD). (MAD was formerly known as the American Craft Museum [ACM]). Together, the show and the book provide a powerful reminder of the riches in one of the oldest and most revered American public collections of contemporary craft.

The cover of Jewelry Stories: Highlights from the Collection 1947–2019

On one hand, with their emphasis on post-1947 jewelry and adornment, both exhibition and publication demonstrate the silo approach that dominates recent scholarship within contemporary craft. Encouraging the examination of one aspect of the crafts rather than the entire subject, this tactic usually results in an in-depth study of a particular field or medium by tapping into its specific role within the history of decorative arts and design.

Joyce J. Scott (United States, b. 1948), Voices, 1993, glass beads, thread, chain, synthetic faceted discs, 324 x 298 x 13 mm, Museum of Arts and Design, New York; purchase with funds provided by the Horace W. Goldsmith Foundation, 1994, copyright Museum of Arts and Design

In recent years, this strategy has proved especially rewarding because it allows a much-needed focus on diversity, identity, and gender-related issues. All are addressed, in different degrees, in this exhibition and publication. However, this approach prevents and/or limits discourse about the context of such objects within the larger framework of the art of today.

Unfortunately, many of the works featured in Jewelry Stories are considered only from the perspective of twentieth- and twenty-first century craft and design. Interestingly, those texts that do reference parallel developments in modern and contemporary art largely were prepared by art historians of a similar generation and/or training.

A spread from Jewelry Stories: Highlights from the Collection 1947–2019, featuring text by Ursula Ilse-Neuman and work by Margaret De Patta, image courtesy of Arnoldsche

The premise of Jewelry Stories is established in the foreword by MAD’s board chair, Michelle Cohen, who deserves special recognition for her support of this project. Cohen unequivocally claims that every piece of jewelry—be it a traditional form composed of precious stones or a more contemporary example that uses unprecedented materials—has a story. However, since MAD’s holdings date from 1947 onward, the reader will never be able to learn how stories about works made prior to that time compare.

A spread from Jewelry Stories: Highlights from the Collection 1947–2019, showing the first two pages of Barbara Paris Gifford’s introductory essay, image courtesy of Arnoldsche

Cohen’s foreword is followed by a brilliant essay entitled A MAD Jewelry Tale, by MAD’s associate curator and publication editor, Barbara Paris Gifford. In an informal tone, Gifford first carefully outlines the project. She then draws upon MAD’s jewelry holdings to recount the dramatic story of the innovations and innovators behind international art jewelry from the post-war period to today.

Sam Kramer (United States, 1913–1964), Roc Pendant, 1958, sterling silver, 14-karat gold, ivory, horn, taxidermy eye, coral, tourmaline, garnet, 121 x 57 x 19 mm, Museum of Arts and Design, New York; purchase by the American Craft Council, 1967, copyright Museum of Arts and Design

Gifford traces the shift from the focus on abstraction and Modernism of the late 1940s and 1950s to experimentation, first with materiality and then with various forms of technology, including digitization. All the while, she focuses on the transformations of the body’s role within contemporary jewelry. Gifford clearly spells out the accompanying aesthetic revolution, too, from jewelry that responds to traditional concerns to pieces that provide commentary on social, political, cultural, or environmental issues.

Eunmi Chun (South Korea, b. 1971), Reindeer (Brooch), 2011, human hair, gold leaf, small intestine of cow, seeds, silver, 298 x 22 x 124 mm, Museum of Arts and Design, New York; purchase with funds provided by Michele Cohen, 2012, copyright Museum of Arts and Design

Among the most satisfying aspects of the essay are Gifford’s efforts to integrate new research. Her ability to combine the specific contributions of the numerous players, put them in context, and gather this information into a compelling, beautifully crafted document makes her essay an invaluable contribution to the literature in the field. Its value is diminished only by the author’s choice to relegate her definitions of studio, contemporary, and art jewelry to an endnote.

David Bielander (Switzerland, b. 1968), Cardboard Crown, 2015, yellow and white gold, 194 x 194 x 38 mm, Museum of Arts and Design, New York; purchase with funds provided by the Collections Committee, 2018, copyright Museum of Arts and Design

The exhibition and book integrate the voices of multiple contributors into a monumental collaborative effort. This brings to mind the “scientific committees” made up of scholars who, when blockbuster shows were first introduced in America in the 1960s and 70s, were told to develop their exhibition “narratives.”

Helen Britton (Australia, b. 1966), Poison Island, 2006–2007, painted silver, vintage glass, freshwater pearls, 57 x 102 x 38 mm, Museum of Arts and Design, New York; gift of Susan C. Beech, 2019, copyright Museum of Arts and Design

Essentially, MAD’s project combined efforts by both Gifford and project manager/MAD assistant curator Angelik Vizcarrondo-Laboy with those of a committee. It consisted of seven highly respected educators, curators, writers, and historians in the field as well as countless esteemed advisors. Ranging from the talented artist and educator Timothy Veske-Mahon to New York Jewelry Week co-founder Bella Neyman, committee members assisted with the initial selection of objects. They then contributed texts on select artworks. Its members also were asked to evaluate MAD’s jewelry collection, identifying areas for potential growth. Finally, they also suggested additional authors who, like the committee members, prepared narratives that reflect their particular practice.

A spread from Jewelry Stories: Highlights from the Collection 1947–2019, featuring text by Mike Holmes and work by (top) Donald Paul Tompkins and (bottom) William Clark, image courtesy of Arnoldsche

The resulting essays, used in an abbreviated form in the exhibition, are rich, lively, and informative. They inspire both the reader and the exhibition viewer to pore through large amounts of text. The essays are grouped by theme based on the stories told by the artworks. There is, however, no formal introduction to each topic. Some stories focus on a single artwork, others on multiple objects by the same art jeweler. Finally, there are a few where several seemingly different objects are presented together. Authors such as Donna Bilak and Urmas Lüüs skillfully unveil the similarities between these works while capturing the magic of making.

Some authors, such as MAD curator emerita Ursula Ilse-Neuman, curator Elizabeth Essner, and curator and editor of First American Art Magazine America Meredith (Cherokee Nation), have chosen the more traditional biographical approach. It places commentary on MAD’s works within the context of artistic careers and oeuvre. Other writers, such as platform and magazine Current Obsession founder Marina Elenskaya, provide novel, thought-provoking cultural interpretations.

A spread from Jewelry Stories: Highlights from the Collection 1947–2019, featuring text by Joyce J. Scott and work by Art Smith, image courtesy of Arnoldsche

Several narratives are particularly moving. They include Dr. Joyce J. Scott’s inspirational essay on African American Modernist jeweler Art Smith; Angelik Vizcarrondo-Laboy’s stirring narrative, using works of Mexican artist Aline Berdichevsky and American art jeweler Julia Turner to describe the perils facing immigrants today; and Helen W. Drutt English’s account of the Stanley Lechtzin story. What Drutt English writes, for example, can come only from a sensitive scholar who has watched an artist grow over a lifetime. Likewise, American artist Thomas Gentille’s tribute to his teacher and mentor John Paul Miller gives new perspective on both artists. It makes the reader wish for additional scholarship.

A spread from the Selected Chronology in Jewelry Stories: Highlights from the Collection 1947–2019, image courtesy of Arnoldsche

The book contains a selected bibliography for the featured artists. A “Selected Chronology,” covering the years 1930–2019, is also included in both the publication and the exhibition. Gifford claims it to be largely “US-centric,” reflecting the museum’s original commitment to American craft. However, key international moments in art jewelry and technology are also included. Nonetheless, the recent events generally are those organized by MAD and other New York institutions. Or else they reference occurrences in which the various contributors to the project participated. This is somewhat off-putting. It raises the specter of the art world’s well-known colloquialism that “Nothing happens west of the Hudson.” Also, the descriptions of those events peripheral to the history of ACM and MAD often do not describe their true importance within the field.

A spread from the Selected Chronology in Jewelry Stories: Highlights from the Collection 1947–2019, image courtesy of Arnoldsche

Despite these criticisms, the book Jewelry Stories is well organized, beautifully designed, and richly illustrated. It is a visual delight to flip through. The narratives are each paired with stunning, full-page color plates of the jewelry. The work has been exquisitely photographed off the body to show how each piece would be exhibited in a museum setting. In a few instances, additional photographs present the objects being worn to reinforce the narratives.

William Harper (United States, b. 1944), Transfigured Mystery, 1979, gold and silver cloisonné enamel on copper, 14-karat gold, 24-karat gold, sterling silver, baroque pearl, bicycle reflector, 117 x 57 x 13 mm, Museum of Arts and Design, New York; purchase with funds donated by the Barbara Rockefeller Foundation, 1993, copyright Museum of Arts and Design

Today, storytelling plays a critical role in making sense of artworks of all media and from all ages. In fact, it is now the buzzword for museums in general. Essentially, it is what art historians have been doing for ages—researching the artist/maker, the meaning of the work, and its origin and place within social and cultural history. Museums now, however, are finding that audiences cannot get enough of this approach. In 2020, when 45 Stories in Jewelry opened at MAD, the museum received much praise for its innovation. Even though the pandemic lowered museum attendance, this effort, along with its accompanying beautiful book, reinforce the uniqueness and importance of art jewelry for a broader audience.

Note: After its run, the exhibition 45 Stories in Jewelry closed but reopened some months later as Jewelry Stories.

The post The Power of the Narrative in the 2020s appeared first on Art Jewelry Forum.

Viewing all 1156 articles
Browse latest View live